Go on safari in Zambia & help support a community
Justin Francis from responsibletravel.com sets out to discover if it possible to enjoy one of the most authentic luxury bush camp safaris in Africa and to help reduce poverty at the same time. This article first appeared in The Times in July 2005. Find this holiday on the site here
Its 5.45am in South Luangwa National Park. In the copper-grey half dawn we gather around a still smouldering camp fire and prepare for the ultimate bush experience – a walking safari in which we can expect to track and see South Luangwa’s heavy brigade of elephant, buffalo, hippo and possibly even lion.
Without a qualified guide to escort us we’d not be troubling the caterers for lunch. Ten years ago 80% of safari guides in the valley were white.
Now 80% are Zambian and Daudi Njobvu explains what to do if we come across a four legged juggernaut having a bad day.
Daudi’s bush knowledge is legendary, but he’s also progressed to managing Nsefu Camp for Robin Pope Safaris who actively seek to develop local staff.
Robin Pope himself first came to South Luangwa in the early seventies, and together with Norman Carr, Phil Berry and others Robin was one of the pioneers of Luangwa tourism, and in particular walking safaris. The Park remains a largely unspoiled wilderness with high densities of wildlife, but relatively low densities of tourists.
Robin and his wife Jo now operate three small, highly personal and authentic bush camps – Nkwali, Tena Tena and Nsefu - offering a professional but relaxed atmosphere. The food is better than in most 5 star hotels, but the views are better as each camp is set in the shade of giant ebony trees directly overlooking the meandering Luangwa River.
Each camp has just six to ten rondavels (or large and airy tents in the case of Tena Tena) with huge beds, thatched roofs and your own private but open air shower! Most guests spend a couple of nights in each camp and it is often possible to watch elephants, or in my case a leopard walking along on the far bank, from the private veranda of each room.
The daily routine involves being woken by gentle pre dawn drumming before a game drive or walk, followed by the chance to share news of game sightings with other guests over a fresh fruit, porridge or toast breakfast back in camp. After enjoying an al fresco lunch from a varied menu you’ll most likely want to relax or enjoy an afternoon siesta before an exciting night game drive in an open top landcruiser looking for leopards and lions with spotlights. The size of the leopards tends to increase in stories told over dinner, and afterwards during drinks around a camp fire under the stars.
Our guide Daudi is an eloquent advocate of the company’s philosophy ‘we don’t treat people as guests or employees here, but as part of one big family.’ When asked about overseas owners of camps he says ’Robin Pope is just the most excellent man for Zambians, and we depend on the marketing element provided by Westerners’.
During our pre-walk safety talk Daudi explains how the armed scout accompanying us will ‘look after’ the animal, and he will ‘look after’ us in the event of any drama with dangerous wildlife. As he explains that it’s best to stay still and calm at all times I find myself inadvertently looking at the other guests to assess who might be the fastest runner!
A walking safari is a totally different experience to being in a vehicle. It requires a far deeper awareness of your surroundings, and during our walk we utilise all of our senses to track lions and buffalo; listen to alarm calls indicating the whereabouts of big game; identify birds including the Ground Hornbill that generates a subterranean throbbing sound like the pulse of Africa; and learn how to stay downwind of Puku antelope to avoid them smelling us.
We marvel at the smallest insects and grasses that often get passed by in the quest for big game. When we stop for tea and cake under a tree with a great view of the hippos I find that I’m totally blissed out and grinning inanely.
On the way back into camp I learn a little more about Daudi’s own family… He has 4 children, and from what he acknowledges is a ‘well paid job’ he supports a further 10 children from his extended family through school. In this Daudi is not unique.
Having lost both parents Bertram Njobvu left school at fourteen with no qualifications. One day three and a half years ago he wandered out of the bush into camp and started work as a casual labourer. From his wages he saved up to buy petrol, and his Uncle taught him to drive. Quite remarkably he is now learning the Latin names of birds and grasses in preparation for his guiding examination. From his wages Bertram supports his six brothers and one sister through school. However while the safari guide’s families, and up to 50% of all the people in the valley benefit from wildlife and tourism others pay a high price for living with the charismatic mega fauna that tourists come to see.
Next morning, after being woken by hippos sounding like they are walking in galoshes full of fish munching the grass outside my room, and an enjoyable but incomplete breakfast (an elephant ate the bread rolls) I pay a visit to Honourable Chief Kakumbi. The Chief has more serious matters on his mind as three days ago his niece was taken by a lion (she was rushed to hospital by Robin Pope Safaris and survived).
The Chief welcomes tourists but explains that ‘people in the villages outside the Park are angry because marauding animals are destroying crops and killing people. We effectively feed the animals and we receive no compensation. The Zambia wildlife Authority (ZAWA) has taken ownership of these animals away from us.’ Rob Clifford, a former Park Manager and now General Manager at Robin Pope Safaris explains that ‘the land belongs to local people, and we cannot keep the Park without appeasing them, however ZAWA lacks the funds to even sustain effective Park conservation let alone provide compensation. The carrot offered to local people for conservation is not big enough.’
The Chief thinks that ‘tourists shouldn’t only come to see the animals. I would like to see them in the villages, and I would like to bless them’. Not far away at Kawaza village it is possible for tourists to experience truly authentic village life of the local, Kunda people.
My guide to the village is the lovely Mary Mtiti, 25. Mary’s father died and her mother is disabled. She is one of 12 children, 7 of whom are still alive. Like many young Zambians Mary wanted a smaller family, and has just one child, however she also looks after 4 more from her and her husband’s deceased siblings. HIV/AIDS casts a tragic and long shadow throughout Zambia. During my day in the village I lark around with the kids and a football made out of crushed paper tied up with string. I also simply sit and talk with people, including Elimina Banda who was born at a time before dates of birth were recorded. She says she is ‘happy to see whites in the village and I would like to spend all day with them. There was a time when I was scared of them but not now.’
A day visit to Kawaza village costs $15, overnight $40. From this guides such as Mary, the healer, and the drummers and dancers from a spectacular performance under the moonlight are paid. The balance goes into a central fund which the community allocate to projects such as Kawaza village basic school.
Since my last visit 6 years ago the school has been transformed. Then there were 327 pupils and 4 teachers. Now there are 551 pupils and 16 teachers.
As Zambia pays five times as much in debt repayments an on education this has in a large part been made possible by Robin Pope Safaris (RPS) who pay for 8 of the teachers; sponsor 51 of the most vulnerable children through school; and built new classrooms together with clients who have donated money. Deputy Head Maxwell Chimba says that ‘the school would be in a very deplorable state without RPS’.
I can say with some confidence that a visit to Kawaza village will be an uplifting experience that will find a place in your heart and stay with you for the rest of your life. If you do visit, look out for the one eyed village headman called Boniface wearing a pair of Ralph Lauren glasses that by a happy accident I packed by mistake. By an even happier accident we turned out to be equally short-sighted.
The jobs created for local people through the tourism industry extend beyond the safari camps and village tourism. 14 years ago Gillie da Motta began to paint and create items including stunning tribally inspired cushion covers and bed spreads for friends. As she had no power she devised a unique and organic manufacturing process.
Extraordinarily her company, Tribal Textiles, now employs 162 local men and women in a joyful open air work space creating a collection of handmade products for sales to tourists and for export.
Gillie recruits many men and women who have not even attended school. ‘They simply need to be honest and want to work’ she says.
Despite having just become a mother, and never having intended to create a business at all Gillie says ‘there is no turning back now, my responsibility to the people here is massive.’
After eight days spent interviewing local people by my calculations your holiday with Robin Pope Safaris (just one of several highly responsible operators in South Luangwa) directly benefits 308 local people including -
160 permanent and temporary staff; 24 workmen building a wonderful new family lodge; 15 people employed transporting goods between camps; 3 baggage handlers at the airport; 8 scouts; 3 local fruit sellers; 15 performers and guides at Kawaza village; 51 sponsored children at Kawaza school; a total of 16 teachers in 2 rural schools; 3 plumbers and electricians; 1 welder; 4 weavers; 3 thatchers and 2 tailors.
Indirectly thousands more local people benefit from your trip. There are approximately 1280 extended family members of the RPS staff in addition to; a Doctor funded by RPS treating hundreds of patients; 150 villagers at Kawaza.
The families of 14 teachers; 160 staff at tribal textiles and their families who benefit if you buy from them; and 200 Park staff which your Park entry fee helps support. That’s before local shops selling goods to those employed by tourism.
What makes Robin Pope Safaris (and others like them in Zambia) contribution to the local communities even more remarkable is that while Robin Pope Safaris is a professionally run & profitable business affording the owners a wonderful lifestyle, it is very far from being a risk free venture generating massive profits.
A recent report stated that the combined profit of all the operators in South Luangwa in 2003 at just over $80,000. Jo Pope says ‘I could make more money selling used tyres.’ She adds that ‘we are in the business of making a profit, but also in the business of offering clients life changing experiences’.
Watching mating leopards; Impala bursting with bright eyed perfection in the majesty of South Luangwa; and children’s faces light up in the villages its impossible not to feel a little bit closer to, and part of, creation. My life has changed a little, and through my visit so have the lives of many local people. Travelling to Africa is a privilege, but it’s what you do with it that counts.
Justin Francis is co-founder of responsibletravel.com.
Its 5.45am in South Luangwa National Park. In the copper-grey half dawn we gather around a still smouldering camp fire and prepare for the ultimate bush experience – a walking safari in which we can expect to track and see South Luangwa’s heavy brigade of elephant, buffalo, hippo and possibly even lion. Without a qualified guide to escort us we’d not be troubling the caterers for lunch. Ten years ago 80% of safari guides in the valley were white.
Now 80% are Zambian and Daudi Njobvu explains what to do if we come across a four legged juggernaut having a bad day.
Daudi’s bush knowledge is legendary, but he’s also progressed to managing Nsefu Camp for Robin Pope Safaris who actively seek to develop local staff.
Robin Pope himself first came to South Luangwa in the early seventies, and together with Norman Carr, Phil Berry and others Robin was one of the pioneers of Luangwa tourism, and in particular walking safaris. The Park remains a largely unspoiled wilderness with high densities of wildlife, but relatively low densities of tourists.
Robin and his wife Jo now operate three small, highly personal and authentic bush camps – Nkwali, Tena Tena and Nsefu - offering a professional but relaxed atmosphere. The food is better than in most 5 star hotels, but the views are better as each camp is set in the shade of giant ebony trees directly overlooking the meandering Luangwa River.
Each camp has just six to ten rondavels (or large and airy tents in the case of Tena Tena) with huge beds, thatched roofs and your own private but open air shower! Most guests spend a couple of nights in each camp and it is often possible to watch elephants, or in my case a leopard walking along on the far bank, from the private veranda of each room.
The daily routine involves being woken by gentle pre dawn drumming before a game drive or walk, followed by the chance to share news of game sightings with other guests over a fresh fruit, porridge or toast breakfast back in camp. After enjoying an al fresco lunch from a varied menu you’ll most likely want to relax or enjoy an afternoon siesta before an exciting night game drive in an open top landcruiser looking for leopards and lions with spotlights. The size of the leopards tends to increase in stories told over dinner, and afterwards during drinks around a camp fire under the stars.
Our guide Daudi is an eloquent advocate of the company’s philosophy ‘we don’t treat people as guests or employees here, but as part of one big family.’ When asked about overseas owners of camps he says ’Robin Pope is just the most excellent man for Zambians, and we depend on the marketing element provided by Westerners’.
During our pre-walk safety talk Daudi explains how the armed scout accompanying us will ‘look after’ the animal, and he will ‘look after’ us in the event of any drama with dangerous wildlife. As he explains that it’s best to stay still and calm at all times I find myself inadvertently looking at the other guests to assess who might be the fastest runner!
A walking safari is a totally different experience to being in a vehicle. It requires a far deeper awareness of your surroundings, and during our walk we utilise all of our senses to track lions and buffalo; listen to alarm calls indicating the whereabouts of big game; identify birds including the Ground Hornbill that generates a subterranean throbbing sound like the pulse of Africa; and learn how to stay downwind of Puku antelope to avoid them smelling us. We marvel at the smallest insects and grasses that often get passed by in the quest for big game. When we stop for tea and cake under a tree with a great view of the hippos I find that I’m totally blissed out and grinning inanely.
On the way back into camp I learn a little more about Daudi’s own family… He has 4 children, and from what he acknowledges is a ‘well paid job’ he supports a further 10 children from his extended family through school. In this Daudi is not unique.
Having lost both parents Bertram Njobvu left school at fourteen with no qualifications. One day three and a half years ago he wandered out of the bush into camp and started work as a casual labourer. From his wages he saved up to buy petrol, and his Uncle taught him to drive. Quite remarkably he is now learning the Latin names of birds and grasses in preparation for his guiding examination. From his wages Bertram supports his six brothers and one sister through school. However while the safari guide’s families, and up to 50% of all the people in the valley benefit from wildlife and tourism others pay a high price for living with the charismatic mega fauna that tourists come to see.Next morning, after being woken by hippos sounding like they are walking in galoshes full of fish munching the grass outside my room, and an enjoyable but incomplete breakfast (an elephant ate the bread rolls) I pay a visit to Honourable Chief Kakumbi. The Chief has more serious matters on his mind as three days ago his niece was taken by a lion (she was rushed to hospital by Robin Pope Safaris and survived).
The Chief welcomes tourists but explains that ‘people in the villages outside the Park are angry because marauding animals are destroying crops and killing people. We effectively feed the animals and we receive no compensation. The Zambia wildlife Authority (ZAWA) has taken ownership of these animals away from us.’ Rob Clifford, a former Park Manager and now General Manager at Robin Pope Safaris explains that ‘the land belongs to local people, and we cannot keep the Park without appeasing them, however ZAWA lacks the funds to even sustain effective Park conservation let alone provide compensation. The carrot offered to local people for conservation is not big enough.’The Chief thinks that ‘tourists shouldn’t only come to see the animals. I would like to see them in the villages, and I would like to bless them’. Not far away at Kawaza village it is possible for tourists to experience truly authentic village life of the local, Kunda people.
My guide to the village is the lovely Mary Mtiti, 25. Mary’s father died and her mother is disabled. She is one of 12 children, 7 of whom are still alive. Like many young Zambians Mary wanted a smaller family, and has just one child, however she also looks after 4 more from her and her husband’s deceased siblings. HIV/AIDS casts a tragic and long shadow throughout Zambia. During my day in the village I lark around with the kids and a football made out of crushed paper tied up with string. I also simply sit and talk with people, including Elimina Banda who was born at a time before dates of birth were recorded. She says she is ‘happy to see whites in the village and I would like to spend all day with them. There was a time when I was scared of them but not now.’A day visit to Kawaza village costs $15, overnight $40. From this guides such as Mary, the healer, and the drummers and dancers from a spectacular performance under the moonlight are paid. The balance goes into a central fund which the community allocate to projects such as Kawaza village basic school.
Since my last visit 6 years ago the school has been transformed. Then there were 327 pupils and 4 teachers. Now there are 551 pupils and 16 teachers. As Zambia pays five times as much in debt repayments an on education this has in a large part been made possible by Robin Pope Safaris (RPS) who pay for 8 of the teachers; sponsor 51 of the most vulnerable children through school; and built new classrooms together with clients who have donated money. Deputy Head Maxwell Chimba says that ‘the school would be in a very deplorable state without RPS’.
I can say with some confidence that a visit to Kawaza village will be an uplifting experience that will find a place in your heart and stay with you for the rest of your life. If you do visit, look out for the one eyed village headman called Boniface wearing a pair of Ralph Lauren glasses that by a happy accident I packed by mistake. By an even happier accident we turned out to be equally short-sighted.
The jobs created for local people through the tourism industry extend beyond the safari camps and village tourism. 14 years ago Gillie da Motta began to paint and create items including stunning tribally inspired cushion covers and bed spreads for friends. As she had no power she devised a unique and organic manufacturing process.
Extraordinarily her company, Tribal Textiles, now employs 162 local men and women in a joyful open air work space creating a collection of handmade products for sales to tourists and for export. Gillie recruits many men and women who have not even attended school. ‘They simply need to be honest and want to work’ she says.
Despite having just become a mother, and never having intended to create a business at all Gillie says ‘there is no turning back now, my responsibility to the people here is massive.’
After eight days spent interviewing local people by my calculations your holiday with Robin Pope Safaris (just one of several highly responsible operators in South Luangwa) directly benefits 308 local people including -
160 permanent and temporary staff; 24 workmen building a wonderful new family lodge; 15 people employed transporting goods between camps; 3 baggage handlers at the airport; 8 scouts; 3 local fruit sellers; 15 performers and guides at Kawaza village; 51 sponsored children at Kawaza school; a total of 16 teachers in 2 rural schools; 3 plumbers and electricians; 1 welder; 4 weavers; 3 thatchers and 2 tailors. Indirectly thousands more local people benefit from your trip. There are approximately 1280 extended family members of the RPS staff in addition to; a Doctor funded by RPS treating hundreds of patients; 150 villagers at Kawaza.
The families of 14 teachers; 160 staff at tribal textiles and their families who benefit if you buy from them; and 200 Park staff which your Park entry fee helps support. That’s before local shops selling goods to those employed by tourism.
What makes Robin Pope Safaris (and others like them in Zambia) contribution to the local communities even more remarkable is that while Robin Pope Safaris is a professionally run & profitable business affording the owners a wonderful lifestyle, it is very far from being a risk free venture generating massive profits.
A recent report stated that the combined profit of all the operators in South Luangwa in 2003 at just over $80,000. Jo Pope says ‘I could make more money selling used tyres.’ She adds that ‘we are in the business of making a profit, but also in the business of offering clients life changing experiences’.
Watching mating leopards; Impala bursting with bright eyed perfection in the majesty of South Luangwa; and children’s faces light up in the villages its impossible not to feel a little bit closer to, and part of, creation. My life has changed a little, and through my visit so have the lives of many local people. Travelling to Africa is a privilege, but it’s what you do with it that counts.
Justin Francis is co-founder of responsibletravel.com.
Interested? Take a look at this holiday or visit the Kawaza Village website .