"The red-rose city half as old as time", described in the poem by John William Burgon needs no introduction: enough has already been written. It is, simply, Petra.
The way in
The first time you visit Petra you should approach via the Siq, the narrow winding canyon cut by thousands of years of seasonal rain through sandstone rocks of every shade of red. Virtually everyone comes this way and once you have, you will know why.
The way out
But when you are ready to leave Petra, don't turn around to head back through the Siq, keep walking. There is another exit. It might not be as spectacular, but it has its own rewards as there are fewer tourists the further into Petra you go. At the lower gate there is a road that climbs a hill to the village of Umm Sayhoon.
The Bedouin
This is where the Bedouin community lives. For generations, many Bedouin families lived in the caves of Petra, but in the early '80s they were moved to the houses built by the government at Umm Sayhoon.
If you are leaving at the end of the afternoon you will probably find yourself walking with the Bedouin people who have been selling crafts, horse rides and refreshments all day.
Don't be surprised if you strike up conversations; as very few tourists ever leave by this exit, you will be a curiosity. You may even be invited home for tea.
The village
Provided you're respectful, feel free to explore Umm Sayhoon. It's a real community, very different from the commercial town of Wadi Musa where most visitors to Petra stay. A taxi back to Wadi Musa won't be expensive.
Reading
For a fascinating insight into the Bedouin's last years living in Petra, read Marguerite van Geldermalsen's moving and beautifully-written book "Married to a Bedouin". The author is still in Petra and sells jewellery handmade by local women.
Read more about historical towns and monuments in Jordan
The way inThe first time you visit Petra you should approach via the Siq, the narrow winding canyon cut by thousands of years of seasonal rain through sandstone rocks of every shade of red. Virtually everyone comes this way and once you have, you will know why.
The way out
But when you are ready to leave Petra, don't turn around to head back through the Siq, keep walking. There is another exit. It might not be as spectacular, but it has its own rewards as there are fewer tourists the further into Petra you go. At the lower gate there is a road that climbs a hill to the village of Umm Sayhoon.
The BedouinThis is where the Bedouin community lives. For generations, many Bedouin families lived in the caves of Petra, but in the early '80s they were moved to the houses built by the government at Umm Sayhoon.
If you are leaving at the end of the afternoon you will probably find yourself walking with the Bedouin people who have been selling crafts, horse rides and refreshments all day.
Don't be surprised if you strike up conversations; as very few tourists ever leave by this exit, you will be a curiosity. You may even be invited home for tea.
The villageProvided you're respectful, feel free to explore Umm Sayhoon. It's a real community, very different from the commercial town of Wadi Musa where most visitors to Petra stay. A taxi back to Wadi Musa won't be expensive.
Reading
For a fascinating insight into the Bedouin's last years living in Petra, read Marguerite van Geldermalsen's moving and beautifully-written book "Married to a Bedouin". The author is still in Petra and sells jewellery handmade by local women.
Read more about historical towns and monuments in Jordan 
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