French Pyrenees

Combine spectacular mountain scenery with traditional rural France and the result is the Couserans.

This network of valleys in the French Pyrenees, half-way between the Mediterranean and Atlantic, is tucked – seemingly forgotten - beneath meadow-crested ridges and the rugged peaks that line the border with Spain. Streams tumble to feed fish-rich rivers flowing swiftly through the meadows and orchards of the valley floors. Mixed woodland on the lower slopes; oak, chestnut and hazel surrenders to beech and fir higher up, in turn making way for the open grasslands of the summer pastures, above which stand the rocky crests and summits. Picturesque villages are dotted along the rivers and the landscape is scattered with the old stone and timber barns.

Explore the area on foot on an independent break, choose to travel whenever you like, and stay as long as you wish (minimum 3 nights). Holidays include comfortable single-centre accommodation in a traditional village, hire car (carbon offset of course!), breakfast and a Handbook containing masses of local information as well as a wide range of self-guided walks suitable for all abilities and ages (including children), and the support of a knowledgeable locally based manager. In addition, if you opt for an 'Original' holiday, you will also be able to join 3 organised walks per week, and receive a lavish packed-lunch every day as well. There are no fixed itineraries – you are free to walk as much or as little as you like.

'No-frills hosted' – includes en-suite B&B, hire car, Handbook of self-guided walks and local information and the support of a local manager.
'Original' – includes en-suite B&B, hire car, Handbook of self-guided walks and local information, 3 organised walks per week, deli-style packed lunches and the services of a local Manager.

Walking: Short self guided walks on offer include walking in gentle, valley landscapes beside the Bouigane; a brief climb to Galey’s Calvary chapel, perched on a hill with wonderful views; a stream-side picnic beneath towering border peaks, or an exploration of St Catherine’s cave and the ruins of her tower. If a medium length (half-day) excursion appeals, there are the isolated mountain-side Chapelle de l’Isard to discover, the limpid waters of the Etang d’Ayes, for dipping feet or more, St Lary’s Sentier de Découverte, which illustrates every aspect of mountain life, or a loop through the rustic landscapes of the Bethmale valley. A full-day expedition could take you onto the open grassland of the whale-back ridge of Bouirex, to enjoy huge views north and south; or high into the summer pastures, where streams splash and tumble and bell-wearing sheep, cows and horses graze on meadow flowers.

If you choose an 'Original' holiday, on three days a week you may join an organised walk that can include climbing a local peak – La Calabasse (2,210 metres), venturing off-piste in search of the isolated and spectacular Cascade de l’Isard, or exploring the dramatic, glacier-carved landscapes of the Mont Valier massif.

Village and accommodation: St Lary (675 metres) is a compact cluster of old houses; pale walls and decorative slate roofs nestling into the lush greens of the surrounding woods and meadows at the meeting of two mountain rivers near the head of the Vallée de la Bellongue. To the north are the forested slopes of the Cornudère ridge, culminating in a grassy crest at 1500 metres. To the south twin tributary valleys, dotted with tiny hamlets and isolated barns, lead to the wide expanse of high summer pasture beneath the pyramidal Pic de la Calabasse (2210 metres).

The 2-star Auberge de L’Isard is primarily a restaurant with rooms which straddles the rushing river Bouigane; a covered bridge links the restaurant and terrace with the main building. Daniel and Florence, who grew up in the valley, have 7 very comfortable and well-appointed rooms - all en-suite, with televisions – furnished and decorated to a standard that has earned them two Logis de France ‘Cheminées’. In the restaurant they preside over a varied menu of local dishes – it is hard to beat eating trout on the terrace as the river flows by on a warm evening. May & Jun: Snow lingers picturesquely on Mont Valier, while the high pastures are lush with flowers. One or two of the highest walks may be inaccessible.

July & Aug: Settled summer weather – warm enough for a paddle in the turquoise mountain lake of Ayes?

September: The first hints of autumn bring perfect temperatures – whether walking high on the crests, or on a valley excursion, perhaps to St Bertrand de Comminges.

October: Stunning autumn colours in the Bellongue forests, with many crystal-clear days for long distance views. Weather cooler. Travel by train: From London there is a day train to Toulouse via Paris.