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1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?

There were several memorable parts to our holiday and it is impossible to decide which to choose so I'll tell you about just four of them! We chose our date to be at Gondar for the Timkat festival - the Christian Orthodox Epiphany where the Ark of the Covenant is paraded through the street by priests in the principle Ethiopian towns. We accompanied the huge procession for its 2 kilometre walk to Fasilida's baths and the next morning watched the men and boys leaping off the tower into the water of the baths to be purified (the baths are filled for this ceremony and in consequence there is no water left for the hotels etc.)

Our walks in the Simien Mountains were impressive as the scenery is magnificent with steep gorges, Gelada baboons and plenty of bird life. The ghastly "hole in the ground" toilets at the camp site were sadly, also memorable. Being hugged by 2 drunk Hamar women in the Omo Valley is also unforgettable. I accepted to put on one of their headdresses so consequently had a ring of red clay mixed with rancid butter around my head as this is what they apply to their hair for decoration. Finally: being invited by Eskinder to participate in the sheep killing ceremony at his mother's house. It was the day before fasting began (for 56 days), so fresh (!) sheep is eaten the day before. When we arrived the sheep was alive in the yard, when we left there was a little mutton left sizzling over the open fire. Of course we eat the meat with injeera, the staple food of the people (it is an acquired taste!).

2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?

Be prepared! It was our 2nd trip to Ethiopia but other than the abundance of new roads being built but not yet completed, and many new buildings being constructed in Addis, little has changed. Hotel accommodation in Addis is excellent but the city is very highly polluted by black smoke belching out of exhaust systems. Outside Addis reasonable accommodation is not easy to find and sometimes you will be without running water and/or electricity?

3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?

Local people benefited as we booked directly with Eskinder, so there were not any "between men" - all our expenditure went directly to the people there.

4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?

Excellent. We would highly recommend using Eskinder because he was so considerate and attentive. He provided us with a tailor made tour and virtually everything went according to plan. The drivers and guides he used were very good, particularly Girma who accompanied us to the South.

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