Reproduced courtesy of
Global Magazine
With just a three-hour flight from Gatwick, it's possible to experience the buzz of Marrakech and the beauty of the Atlas Mountains all in the space of a long weekend, as Dominic Tombs discovered.
Relaxing in a hammam (a traditional steam bath) in a kasbah after an afternoon walking around the villages in the foothills of Jbel Toubkal, the highest mountain in North Africa, it was hard to believe that just 24 hours earlier I had been sitting at my desk wrestling with the next round of deadlines. And so here I was ladling buckets of steaming hot water over my body, enjoying a steam bath in the beautifully restored Kasbah du Toubkal in the town of Imlil high in the Atlas Mountains.
Our group of six had met on Friday evening at Gatwick Airport for an evening flight to Morocco. Just three hours later and we were touching down at the airport at Marrakech where Mohamed, our driver, met us and took us in to town. After a short drive we arrived at the square called Djemaa El Fna in the heart of the city. Although a little after midnight, the square was still busy with food stalls selling traditional Moroccan fare, musicians, poets and snake charmers performing for locals and tourists alike. Stepping out of the taxi for a look around, the warm night air carried the smells and sounds of the souks and performers across the square and I stood rooted to the spot soaking up the incredible atmosphere.
Marrakech originated during the Almoravid rule between 1062-70 as a centre for tribesmen and local Berbers to meet and trade goods. And even today there is still a strong market feel about the place. Despite the maze of streets and souks that spread out like a web around Marrakech, most places of interest lead off from and are within easy walking distance of Djemaa El Fna. And it's here where most people first head to get their bearings before setting off to explore the labyrinths of streets and souks. The main square itself is made up of numerous stalls selling everything from freshly squeezed fruit juices to herbs and spices commonly used to treat various ailments. Probably of more interest are the street entertainers – although some people may find acts involving snakes and other animals a little cruel. The evenings are when the square really comes to life, with raucous acts and an even greater number of food stalls; but night or day, there's always something of interest going on in the square.
Because of its labyrinthine feel and the general bustle of Marrakech, it's quite easy to miss things of interest along the way. A decent map is essential, or, even better; hire the services of a local guide, who will invariably know far more about the local history and culture than you could read in any guidebook. Guides can be easily arranged either from your accommodation or from the tourist office (OMNT).
Beyond Marrakech
Woken the next morning by the sounds of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer, we made an early start for Imlil, the last mountain town before Jbel Toubkal and the main base for walking in the area. The one and half hour journey was broken up en route with a stop at a local market, where you can wander around the many craft and food stalls or simply enjoy traditional Berber hospitality at one of the temporary make-shift cafes. Having been serenaded by a local musician and fuelled up with many glasses of sweet mint tea, we pushed on for Imlil.
The final part of the journey is pretty arduous travelling across a fairly rugged track – but this all adds to the feeling that you're really getting away from the madding crowds; a newer road is nearing completion though which should take less toll on your backside!
Arriving at Imlil 1,790 metres above sea level, the air was noticeably thinner than in Marrakech, and we panted up the winding path through a walnut grove towards our accommodation at the magical Kasbah du Toubkal. Sitting high at the top of the town, the Kasbah was built in the 1940s as the summer home of Caid Souktani, a powerful local ruler. It was abandoned in 1956 when Morocco gained its independence and the Glaoui tribe lost power. It has now been faithfully restored by local craftsmen and is run by Berbers. Electricity was only installed in 1997 and there is now a mobile phone ban in the public areas of the Kasbah since a mast was controversially erected in the area last year! The Kasbah is run on green principles - collecting trash from local Berber villages, recycling, filtering spring water rather than using bottled water and encouraging responsible tourism. It has won the British Airways Tourism for Tomorrow in recognition of its achievements for sustainable tourism.
Accommodation
Settling in to our rooms, we were all amazed by the level of comfort that had been achieved whilst retaining so much authenticity. Each room and building is fitted out with hand-carved doors and furniture, and small touches such as local Berber gowns and slippers really made you feel at home. On one side, the Kasbah looks down over the rest of the town; the other three sides offer impressive views of the surrounding mountains – including the peak of Jbel Toubkal itself on clear days.
There's a choice of rooms on offer; take your pick from dormitory style accommodation (although these are likely to be far superior to any other dorm you've ever stayed in), terrace rooms overlooking the gardens and valley, or the tower, on top of which there is a great viewing deck – perfect for enjoying the incredibly clear night sky, which makes identifying several constellations easy. All of the rooms have exceptional views and the tower rooms offer panoramic views of the surrounding area – you can even see the mountains whilst sitting on the toilet! It's wonderfully quiet and peaceful and a great place to retreat to for the weekend to unwind.
Food in Morocco is about far more than just sustenance and is a real social occasion. And this is never more apparent than with a tajine meal (a stew cooked in a traditional earthenware dish over a coal fire). Served at the table in the tajine pot, the meal usually serves a number of people; using a chunk of bread in the right hand (the left is used for other things in Morocco), people eat from the portion of pot directly in front of them; it's considered impolite to grab a particularly tasty-looking chunk of meat from someone else's side of the dish. Chicken, lamb, fish and vegetables are common staples of the Moroccan diet. Vegetarianism is still something of an oddity and the options for veggies are pretty limited. Fresh fruit and vegetables are readily available in towns and villages at local markets.
A drop of the good stuff
Islam is the predominant religion and therefore alcohol isn't widely consumed, although it is available. It's most commonly found in hotels catering for foreign visitors and supermarkets. You won't come across much, if any, alcohol at local markets or within the walls of medinas. The cheapest drinks are the locally brewed beers but imported European brands are also available. The Kasbah du Toubkal doesn't sell alcohol but they're happy for you to bring it on to the premises.
Things to do
Imlil is the gateway to Jbel Toubkal and the surrounding area. At 4,167 metres, a climb to the peak of Toubkal is not for the fainthearted and requires an overnight stop at the Toubkal Refuge. Remember that even during the summer, it gets pretty cold at altitude and you'll need the right gear and clothing. For those who don't want to make an assault on the summit, there are plenty of low-level walks around the foothills that take in some breath-taking scenery.
Whichever route you choose, you'll certainly pass through local Berber villages, where you'll usually get harangued by local children with cries of "Bonjourdirham" and "bonjourstilo" ("hello money" and "hello pen") almost as if they were single words! It's tough refusing the children, but in order to discourage local people from coming to rely on a begging culture, it's better not to give out gifts unless in an agreed exchange for a service or on the basis of friendship.
Even a low-level stroll around the local villages offers some spectacular views of the surrounding valleys and villages. Many of the routes have one or two drink stops along the way and in most villagers you'll find a café or friendly family willing to serve you a refreshing brew of mint tea. An exquisite banquet of fresh salad, tuna and fruit was prepared for us in a shady spot by a river, but independent travellers should be able to pick up a meal in most of the villages too.
The sun can get be pretty fierce so a cap, sunglasses, sun cream and plenty of water are essential. You'll probably also want to wear shorts, but exposing your legs - even for men - is considered rude in some villages, so a pair of trousers with zip-off legs is a good idea. As well as coming across well-laden mules on the winding tracks, you may also see some fantastic birds; we were lucky enough to see a falcon circling overhead against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains and a brilliant blue sky.
And when the walking all gets too much, return to the peace and tranquillity of the Kasbah's sun terraces or treat yourself to a session in the hammam. A perfect weekend distraction from the stress of work back home…
Dominic Tombs, Editor Global Magazine
Interested? Take a look at this trip to the Atlas Mountains and our Morocco holiday pages.
