Mud huts, drums at dawn . . . luxury
If you think driving in search of big game is exciting, try walking. Justin Francis opens our African special with a safari in Zambia — where his most important piece of kit is a pair of running shoes
IT’S 5.45am in South Luangwa National Park. In the copper-grey dawn we gather around a smouldering campfire and prepare for the ultimate bush experience — a walking safari to track the park’s heavy brigade of elephant, buffalo, hippo and possibly lion.
Our guide, Daudi Njobvu, explains what to do if we come across a four-legged juggernaut — stay still and remain calm. Njobvu’s bush knowledge is legendary, but now he manages Nsefu Camp for Robin Pope Safaris, which seeks to develop local staff.
Robin Pope came to South Luangwa in the early 1970s and was one of the pioneers of Luangwa tourism. The park remains a largely unspoilt wilderness, with high densities of wildlife and relatively few tourists.
Pope and his wife, Jo, operate three small, authentic bush camps, Nkwali, Tena Tena and Nsefu. The food is better than that served in many five-star hotels, and the camps are set in the shade of giant ebony trees overlooking the meandering Luangwa River.
Each camp has between six and ten circular brick and thatch huts — or large, airy tents in the case of Tena Tena — with huge beds and private, open-air showers. Most guests spend a couple of nights in each camp, and elephant, or in my case a leopard, can often be seen walking along on the far bank of the river.
The daily routine involves being woken by gentle pre-dawn drumming before a three-hour game drive or walk before it gets too hot. Guests share news of game sightings over breakfast back in camp. An alfresco lunch is usually followed by a nap before a night drive in an open-top vehicle looking for leopard, lion and Pels fishing owls.
Ten years ago 80 per cent of safari guides in the valley were white. Now 80 per cent are Zambian. Njobvu is an eloquent advocate of the company’s philosophy: “We don’t treat people as guests or employees here, but as part of one big family.”
During our pre-walk safety talk Njobvu explains that in the event of any confrontation with dangerous wildlife the armed scout accompanying us will “look after” the animal, and he will “look after” us. He explains that the best response is to remain still and calm at all times — though I find myself inadvertently looking at the other guests to assess who might be the slowest runner!
A walking safari is a different experience to being in a vehicle, and requires deeper awareness of your surroundings. During our walk we track lion and buffalo, listen to alarm calls indicating the whereabouts of big game, identify birds and learn how to stay downwind of Puku antelope to avoid them smelling us and being alarmed.
On the way back into camp I learn about Njobvu’s family. He has four children, and from what he acknowledges is a “well-paid job” he supports a further ten from his extended family through school. In this he is far from unique.
Having lost both parents, Bertram Njobvu left school at 14 with no qualifications. One day, three and a half years ago, he wandered out of the bush into the camp and started work as a casual labourer. From his wages he saved up to buy petrol, and his uncle taught him to drive. He is now learning the Latin names of birds and grasses in preparation for his guiding examination.
As well as offering safaris, Robin Pope Safaris (RPS) can arrange for tourists to experience authentic village life of the Kunda people either on a day visit or for an overnight stay at Kawaza village.
My guide to the village is Mary Mtiti. Mary’s father died and her mother is disabled. Now 25, she is one of 12 children, seven of whom are still alive. Like many young Zambians Mary wanted a smaller family and has just one child, however she also looks after four orphaned nieces and nephews. HIV/Aids casts a long shadow over Zambia.
During my day in the village I lark around with the children and a football made out of crushed paper tied up with string. If you stay overnight — in a traditional African mud hut with the comforts of a good mattress, mosquito net and Western-style lavatory — you sample daily life, pick cotton, feed children, play football, and simply sit and talk. I met Elimina Banda, who was born before dates of birth were recorded. She said: “I am happy to see whites in the village. There was a time when I was scared of them but not now.”
A day visit to Kawaza village costs about £9, overnight about £23. From this, guides such as Mary, and the drummers and dancers who put on a spectacular performance for visitors under the moonlight, are paid. The balance goes into community projects such as Kawaza village basic school.
Since my last visit six years ago the school has been transformed. Then there were 327 pupils and four teachers. Now there are 551 pupils and 16 teachers. Zambia pays five times as much in debt repayments as it spends on education and the improvements to the school have in a large part been made possible by RPS, which pays for eight of the teachers, sponsors 51 children and has built new classrooms with help from donations.
The deputy head, Maxwell Chimba, says: “The school would be in a deplorable state without RPS.”
The jobs created through the tourism industry extend beyond the safari camps and village tourism. Fourteen years ago, Gillie da Motta began to paint and create items, including stunning cushion covers and bedcovers for friends. As she had no power she devised her own organic manufacturing process.
Her company, Tribal Textiles, now employs 162 men and women and creates handmade products for sales to tourists and for export.
Despite having just had a baby, and never having planned to create a business, Gillie says: “There can be no turning back: my responsibility to the people here is huge.”
After eight days talking to villagers, I worked out that a holiday with Robin Pope Safaris directly benefits 308 local people — see below.
Indirectly, thousands more people benefit from the trips. There are about 1,280 extended family members of the RPS staff in addition to a doctor funded by RPS treating hundreds of patients; 150 villagers at Kawaza; extended families of 16 teachers; 160 staff at Tribal Textiles and their families who benefit if you buy from them; and 200 park staff who are supported in part by park entry fees — and that’s without including the shops selling goods to those employed in tourism.
What makes Robin Pope Safaris’ — and others like them in Zambia, such as Kapani Lodge and Tafika camp — contribution to their communities even more remarkable is that while it is a profitable business, it is far from being a risk-free venture.
Jo Pope says: “I could make more money selling used tyres.We are in the business of making a profit, but also in the business of offering clients life-changing experiences.”
Who benefited from Justin's safari in Zambia?
160 permanent and temporary safari staff
24 workmen building a new family lodge
15 people employed in transporting goods
15 performers and guides
51 sponsored children
16 teachers
3 airport baggage handlers
8 trackers
3 local fruit sellers
3 plumbers and electricians
4 weavers
3 thatchers
2 tailors
Need to know
Getting there: Justin Francis travelled with Sunvil Africa (020-8232 9777, www.sunvil.co.uk/africa), which offers an 11-day trip, including eight nights at Robin Pope Safaris’ camps, from £1,726.
A 12-day trip, including eight nights at Norman Carr’s camps, such as Kapani Lodge (www.normancarrsafaris.com), costs from £2,052. An 11-day trip, including Tafika camp, is from £2,341. All prices, which are per person, are based on two sharing and include BA flights, internal flights and transfers, accommodation, meals, drinks, game drives and guided walks.
Further information: Robin Pope Safaris and Kawaza Village School Fund (www.robinpopesafaris.net); Tribal Textiles (00 260 6 245137, www.africantribalcrafts.com).
