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Self catering apartments in Capena, Italy

COUNTRY:
Italy
LOCATION:
Lazio
PRICE:
From €285-€960 per apartment per week, depending on apartment & season.
VOUCHERS:
Gift vouchers can be used with this holiday
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Self catering apartments in Capena, Italy

Self catering apartments in Capena, Italy

How this holiday makes a difference

We seek to encourage the local community of artists (of which there are many) by only hanging local art-works in the houses and commissioning special pieces. We provide information for visitors on where they can buy the artists' work. We support the local community in a general way by encouraging our visitors to use local shops and restaurants. Not content with the maps provided, we have drawn our own map of the area and we provide a guide to the local shops and reviews of the restaurants so visitors can make an informed decision about where to eat.

Apart from general practical information about the area and the village, including directions, we also provide visitors with other information about the village's history and its culinary and artistic heritage. The entire Sabine Hills area is reputed to produce the best olive oil in Italy due to its low acidity and we emphasise this to our guests and tell them about local olive oil trails. We are constantly seeking out new local attractions, preferably off the beaten track and produce a sheet of suggestions for our visitors. We strongly encourage visitors to use local transport if possible. We provide detailed instructions on the best way to reach the village by public transport and otherwise lay on a taxi service so that guests can avoid the need to rent a car.

Casa Galilei, our larger property, was a completely derelict corner of the Renaissance monastery built on the site of the village's medieval fortress before we restored it. Formerly the monastery guest quarters, it had been uninhabited for nearly two centuries and used to house chickens and a mule. Caves at the back of the property date back to the Etruscan settlement that predated the medieval and renaissance buildings. The building was restored by a local master builder, Mimmo, who was born in the village and is completely familiar with the local materials and building styles after a long apprenticeship with his father. He and his brother Comilvio worked non-stop for 18 months to restore the building expertly using exactly the materials that would have been used originally, i.e. hand-fired terracotta tiles, specially imported from Tuscany laid in exactly the pattern that would have been used for this type of dwelling, and colossal chestnut beams that had to be manhandled into place using a winch and pulley system much as the monastery's original builders must have done. The original room plan has been left exactly as it was. Light is funnelled into the two windowless rooms that are inside the monastery building from the brightly lit outer rooms by a clever system of skylights and openings in the walls.

We regularly host a team of archaeologists in Casa Galilei. We were proud to welcome Dr Roman Roth and his team of archaeologists from Cambridge University to Casa Galilei. Dr Roth and his team have started to excavate the ancient site of Capena, about 3km out of the present town centre. Because the property had been left derelict for so long, there had been some unsightly dumping at the top of what should be an unspoilt valley behind the house. We paid to remove much of the rubbish ourselves and also lobbied the health authorities in Rome and the local town hall to do something about it. We have secured an agreement from the Mayor that within the year we will be allowed to look after the upkeep of the communal land around the back of the house.

We will not overcome years and years of neglect and self-interested development of this wonderful historical site overnight and it is sometimes a delicate juggling task to call for change while still maintaining good relations with the local community. We are helped, though, by the fact that the village has been awarded funding to restore the historical centre and work on this massive project is well underway, with a new drainage and sewage system installed to replace the ancient system of leaky pipes, new cobbles and - best of all - a car park below the old square so that the area will soon be traffic-free.

We try to minimise energy use by using energy efficient light bulbs and the most energy efficient household appliances. We also have showers and half-flush toilets and we change sheets and towels once a week. The walls of Casa Galilei, our larger property are 3 feet thick and provide wonderful insulation, meaning we do not need air conditioning or fans in summer and hardly any heating in winter (though we do have gas-fired central heating). We recycle using the local bins, though this does not amount to a lot as we are a small-scale operation. We have established contact with the River Tiber nature conservation project in Nazzano, a nearby village and encourage our visitors to take the opportunity of a bird-watching river trip down an unspoilt stretch of the Tiber, coupled with lunch at the organic restaurant in the reserve with the added bonus of wild boar spotting!

We run a paper-free operation as far as possible and conduct all bookings and administration via the internet as far as possible. The British end of We are run by Juliet out of a garden office in Twickenham to avoid transport pollution and Pucci, who runs the Italian side, also works from her home just 20 yards from Casa Galilei and a short work away from Casa Marconi and the Anatra Grassa restaurant. Both our houses are equipped with broadband internet and, through Juliet's links with the Society of Authors, we try to promote them as out of season retreats for writers or other types of teleworker. We give our guests information about local conservation, in particular informing them of local rubbish and recycling arrangements and of local bylaws about when they should dispose of their rubbish and about making noise late at night and so on.

The houses are owned and administered by Juliet, who lives in England most of the year but has a long association with Capena, having lived there for a few years more than 20 years ago and now a very regular visitor. The properties are run from day to day by her friend Pucci, who has lived in the village for many years with her teenage boys and is a much-loved and respected member of the local community. Pucci speaks English and is also wonderful and infinitely patient with our guests, sometimes taking them on days out, inviting them for meals in her own home, introducing them to the locals and generally making them feel part of the local community.

Capena, like most of Italy, now has a large and hard-working Romanian community who are now free to live and work in the country since the EU enlargement became effective at the beginning of 2008. Our Romanian cleaner Lumi lives right next door to Casa Galilei and is responsible for cleaning both the houses and bossing us about in the nicest possible way. She and her Romanian husband Mariano (a builder who has also worked for us) originally lived alone having been forced by circumstances to leave their small boy, Cosmin, in Romania with his granny. But now, in a heart-warming happy ending, he has at last been able to joined his parents and started school in Capena last September.

Casa Galilei and Casa Marconi are both newly restored properties but despite this, it is amazing how many odd jobs need doing all the time. Stefano, our odd job man and friend is a little bit special because he can turn his hand to anything from mending a leaky pipe to fixing the internet and is frequently called upon to do both. He is particularly appreciated for his willingness to help out at the drop of a hat even in the evening or at weekends. But then again, he only lives around the corner. Curse Capena – our cookery course venture in conjunction with the Anita Grass restaurant - also uses only locally sourced produce that is organic where possible. Giovanni, the chef at the restaurant seeks out local producers, who are often unaware of the merits of their produce. The village is particularly famed for its chickpeas and sucking pigs, for example.

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Self catering apartments in Capena, Italy

Reviewed 19 Jan 2012 by Kate Coveney4 star rating

1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?


We have many wonderful memories from this holiday. Firstly the accommodation and the town of Capena itself. Such a beautiful, timeless place. We had a day of cooking at the apartment which was great fun.

2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?


Gem up on your Itallian! Refreshingly we were pretty much the only Tourists in the town and few spoke English, all menus were in Italian. You would also need your own transport.

3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?


Very much so.

4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?


We had a really memorable and magical holiday. Capena was a beautiful town with lots to offer. We were only a short train journey from Rome so it was very convenient.

Read the operator's response here:

Hi Kate, thanks so much for your review and hope you are enjoying life with your
new baby
Juliet

Reviewed 19 Jan 2012 by Sondra Marcon4 star rating

1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?


This accommodation is located in a stunning small town that is filled with little art treasures sculpted into the landscape. Located on a hillside as the sun goes down these creative benches and walls all gleam and sparkle.

Our cooking class was super fun and I would recommend it to anyone interested in learning some local cuisine and having some fun.

2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?


A basic understanding of Italian is helpful especially for grocery shopping or taking the bus system. We did not rent a car for our stay and if you are ok with taking local transit Roma is just a 30 minute bus and train ride away and very easy to access.

3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?


We shopped daily for our food and ate at local restaurants a few nights. We walked everywhere in the town a car was not necessary to travel inside the town and if you are looking for a laid back holiday with one or two trips to Roma the bus system is very easy to navigate and you can even get to 2 of the towns outside of Capena if you are interested.

4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?


Amazingly beautiful rental, located in an old monastery with stunning views of the hills. Quiet and restful spot to recharge and enjoy a little of Italy's culture.

Read the operator's response here:

Thanks for your review and for being such a great guest
Juliet

Reviewed 09 Jan 2012 by John Clifford1 star rating

1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?


Colleseum in Rome, incredible place.

The car was exciting, driving in Rome was exciting! The car (recommended by holiday owner) - Holiday Autos trading as Advantage Italy, poor brakes, headlights and indicators all faulty. This was exciting but not desirable. We had to drive it back (80km each way) to exchange. Advantage Italy refused to supply a new car unless we spent the time returning to the airport. The flight home was great. We were so upset we paid another €258 to fly home 3 days early.

2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?


Don't book it at any time in the winter. Responsible travel has never before failed us. This was a commercially let apartment that was clean but poorly maintained, had masses of damp ingress and 'odd' refurbishment e.g. Downstairs lighting all designed to cast a shadow over the kitchen work surfaces. The heating failed. The anglepoise tripped the electricity when re 'poised'. We were asked to stay in the damp cold apartment the first night, and then to stay in a business hotel for 2 nights. The apartment was in a narrow alley - it says this in the info implying it was quiet, forgetting to mention that this was a shortcut to the car park. (car park was very scenic). The recommended Car hire were most unhelpful.

3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?


No. All lighting was filament. A de-humidifier was working overtime in the damp cellar. Rubbish had to be carried to a local lay-by where it piled up for the rats presumably. There were local people involved, and whilst there were concerned they could not get the heater fixed on a bank holiday. They also did not offer an emergency gas/electric heater overnight. The contact 'Elizabeth' did not appear but the husband of another local did. We did our bit to spend locally - hence the frozen food in the freezer and the cleaner/toilet rolls bought that we left behind.

4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?


The poorest experience we have ever had. Holiday Auto's we will never ever use again. The operator seems to have happy people in their visitors book although some pages were ripped out - always a little worrying. Had we stayed we would have had the car noises through the night. We asked for specific interests that were not met. The Italian cookery lesson, the local wine producers co-operative, and for a place to eat out Boxing day. The apartment owner did refund the 1 damp night, plus some allowance for food & phone calls whilst at the 'Relax Hotel" a few Km away. We were not however in the charming quiet Capena. No matter how hot the new heating was it would have been heating a basically damp dark apartment. There were signs of damp/wet in the bedroom rafters as well as water soaking up the door curtains. Probably lovely and cool in the heat of summer! We do recognise that the poor car hire was not the owner's fault and are grateful for her compensation but the holiday was dreadful.

You (Responsible Travel) do not offer a 0 star but that is where we think it currently needs to be.

Read the operator's response here:

Unfortunately our brand new and regularly maintained boiler let us down on Boxing Day on John’s arrival (though it was working when he arrived) and it took us 36 hours to get it fixed. During that time I put John and his partner up in a local 4 star hotel (at our expense) and paid them €60/day food allowance. Considering they only paid €60/day for the house I didn’t think that was bad under the circumstances.

John’s hire car also failed him, thus contributing to his unfortunate holiday experience – though why he sees fit to include this in his review when he admits this was nothing to do with us is a mystery.

As to the other comments on the house, it is a village house with a tufa cantina like all the other old houses in this area we keep a dehumidifier in the cantina though it is not in the least damp, especially when the heating is working. The house was restored 4 years ago and the plumbing, electrical system and central heating are brand new. The boiler was installed in 2009 and last serviced in May 2011 and under gas board service contract.

The narrow alley where the house is located is extremely quiet at night. I find it breathtaking to hear it described as a ‘short cut to a car park’! It is a lovely lane in the historical centre. As with many Italian old town centres, the car park is located out of the way of the historical centre to keep the square car-free. Only residents park there and it tucked out of site in the valley below the village. Capena town council would be horrified to hear John’s description of the local wheelie bin collection area as a ‘lay-by where the rubbish builds up for the rats’. Like everywhere in Italy, rubbish is taken in bags to wheelie bins in the square, which are emptied on a daily basis.

We went to considerable lengths to arrange a meal on John’s arrival but when he finally replied he said he preferred to eat at the airport. We also discussed a cookery lesson but he was told well in advance (in August/Sep) that the teacher was on holiday over Christmas.

John mentions that a ‘husband of another local’ came to fix the boiler. This was in fact our regular handyman Stefano, just doing his job within minutes of being alerted that the boiler was not working. He in turn had to call in the gas board who needed to order a new valve, hence the delay. John does not mention the hours of help given to him by Lena, our manager, to sort out a hotel- which was no mean feat over Christmas in Rome.

We currently have a very happy guest in the house who is warm as toast and absolutely loving the experience – this is the norm.
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Holiday Reviews

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