Most walkers donít just want to just Ďbagí a mountain, or race from one valley to the next. Unless they are in search of complete solitude, most walkers enjoy getting off the beaten track on holiday to help them get in touch with the real country and its culture. Not the one laid on for tourists. A lot of walking holidays cater for this craving for cultural exchange, staying in traditional rural accommodation such as mountain auberges in the French Alps, or pensions in the Taurus Mountains of Turkey. In Franceís Mercantour National Park, you sample food that is heavily influenced by its proximity to Italy, And in Catalonia, you score major brownie points by giving a greeting in Catalan as you cross paths with a local walker. That is one of the most wonderful things about walking holidays in remote spots. Hosts rarely feel threatened or Ďinvadedí by walkers. Turn up with a coachload of camera slinging tourists, however, and itís a different story.