2 independent reviews for Arnhem Land tours, Australia

Justin Francis review 31 Oct 2009

1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?

Arnhem Land. This is one of the most special places I have ever visited. It's Aboriginal Land, and only about 6 small tour operators are licensed to take visitors in. As a result we felt less like tourists and more like we'd been given the key to a semi-secret land. It's enormous, and looks and feels wilder than Kakadu. Perhaps the highlight was the visit to the Art Centre and the cave paintings at Gunbalanya. Here are some notes from my journal -

We sat outside injalak art centre with an old man sat on top of folded legs making elaborate and rather lovely painting of bats, which he points out roost in nearby trees. Rather than take pictures we sit and chat a while. By listening and talking in low and gentle tones we strike up a little conversation before being introduced to Wilfred, our aboriginal guide to the rock art up in the hill behind town.

Wilfred sits silently staring sideways out of the 4wd window as we drive towards the hill in a roundabout way to avoid an area where for the past 3 months young men have been going through an initiation ceremony (definitely 'secret business'). Despite invitations to join our conversation Wilfred remains largely silent.

Heidi and I set off up the hill with Wilfred in 37 degree heat. Part way up he stops and stands facing out over the plain. We wait, assuming he is letting us get our breath. We wait a bit longer. We assume he is waiting for another guide. More time passes, Wilfred standing in the same spot taking in everything below. I get restless and start examining my camera. Still he stands. Slowly we find ourselves just standing too, our minds clear and soak up a sense of this place, so special to his people, his ancestors for 50,000 years. Maybe he senses we are now ready, he moves on without a word.

High in the rocks Wilfred shows us vast overhangs covered with ochre animals (barramundi, the long necked turtle - which is his totem, magpie geese, snakes) and in one place their creation spirit. His stories start quietly, but as he retells them he becomes more animated and his arms shoot out in front of him parallel to the ground with loose fingers and his wrists bent down as he starts to feel it and show us places of their dreaming far away. A hill in the distance is Goose Dreaming, a place where his ancestors visited and knew. Each place has its own meaning in his life, and its lessons from his ancestors told through stories.

Later we sit high under a big rock overhang having some breakfast brought up a Sab. Wilfred moves away to sit quietly. I notice he appears to be reading the landscape, noting each and every person far below setting a fire beside a shallow lake and how successful they are in catching turtles that emerge from the burnt ground as the flames pass. I suspect he notices every goose, every interesting bush.

3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?

We'd read and learnt enough to know that the issues around Aborigines, their past and their future are complex, and that it’s hard to find a truly 'authentic' experience. However its clear that both Art and responsible tourism are important to the community at Gunbalanya, and these this trip was designed as a real partnership between the community and the tour operator who knows them and their families very well.

4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?

This is one of the best travel experiences I have ever had.