1. What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday?

At the end of a long, hot day, exploring the lost capital of Hampi and its many temples and royal buildings. As the sun began to set the State Director of Tourism turned up with his family, and brought with him an expert on playing the musical pillars of the dancing hall of the Vittala temple. Our guide was ecstatic to hear them played again, as this had been forbidden for over a year. A truly magical chance moment for us all.

2. What tips would you give other travellers booking this holiday?

For women, I would point out that Indian ladies, of whatever religious persuasion, or none, do not generally show anything of their legs, or their shoulders (midriffs are optional!).

When touring round the temples, particularly, many of which are active religious centres, I felt more comfortable in long skirts or trousers. For men, shorts in town are similarly a bit difficult (especially in hot weather) but bare legs would usually denote a lower caste person so bear it in mind. Take a universal sink plug - they were a rarity. Take travel wash, because although washing services are universal and cheap, one is rarely in one place long enough to employ them, and we were reliably informed that in any case the dhobi wallah will smash your buttons on the rock!

3. Did you feel that your holiday benefited local people, and minimized impacts on the environment?

Yes - within the constraints of a touring holiday, with limited local infrastructure. The organisers were conscious of trying to meet these objectives; they always chose local guides rather than those offered by the big tour companies whose English may have been easier to understand, but who certainly would not have had the in depth knowledge of those who guided us. Rajat's family are brilliant recyclers and are actively replanting the local forest trees on their own land.

4. Finally, how would you rate your holiday overall?

This was a wonderful introduction to India. Out two young guides, Rajat and his brother-in-law Lalith, were conscientious, sensitive to western prejudices and expectations, informative, knowledgeable, tireless, good humoured - and always delightful company. Rajat had worked out a well-balanced tour, with temples, nature, history, culture, religion and politics in almost equal measure. One felt one could ask him about anything that puzzled us, and would get a reasoned answer explaining all. A week after saying goodbye we are still mulling over all we have seen and done.