Ireland travel guide

Ireland travel guide

Irish people love to talk about the weather. ‘Ah, you brought the good weather with you’ they will say. Or ‘There’s great heat in that sun’. Or, as was heard once on a Connemara beach on a hot day, ‘Sure you could be in the south of France’. Because weather informs everything here. The Atlantic storms have pummelled the coast into divine coves and cliffs. The rain has fed mountain lakes and streams that tumble into waterfalls and create world famous emerald valleys. The winds have blown in surfers and sailors seeking some of the world’s finest waves.

I love that the long distance walking trails are called ‘ways’ in Ireland. The Dingle Way, the Kerry Way and so on. The Irish do seem to do things in their own wonderful way. That is the intangible, indescribable joy of the place.

The weather has inspired Irish writers, painters and musicians. And the sun? Well, when that comes out, Irish eyes go from smiling to seventh heaven. But no matter what the skies are doing, Irish people are feisty yet fun, both passionate and compassionate. And will always open their doors to welcome you in from the rain.

Read more in our Ireland travel guide.

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Ireland is...

the perfect slow travel destination. Walking is the way to go, slow food is supreme, people are chilled and you just want time to slow to a stop.

Ireland isn't...

a place to put off until you retire. Irish responsible tourism is dominated by young people committed to adventure activities, fine local food and contemporary culture.

Things to do in Ireland…

Not only is it the favourite pastime of Irish people, but hiking just really is the best way to get around Ireland. As long as you have plenty of Gore-Tex, great boots and a good attitude to climate change. Because the climate changes here every few hours. What you do have is some of Europe’s most stunning trails to take walking holidays on, in both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Clinging to cove packed peninsulas like Dingle, dramatic clifftop extravaganzas such as the Causeway Coast, around islands such as Rathlin or the Blaskets, or tackling mountain ranges such as Kerry’s Macgillycuddy's Reeks. The other reason that walking is the way to wander in (and wonder at) Ireland, is because everyone loves to talk. Be it on a mountain path, a remote cove or as you stop for rest in a pub. ‘Failte’ is the word of welcome. Arrive on foot, and your ‘failte’ is foolproof. Anyone who thinks that bacon, cabbage, potatoes or Guinness are still the mainstay of the Irish diet, hasn’t ridden the gastronomic wave that has hit Ireland over the last ten years. Local produce from seafood to seaweed, cheese to chocolate, lamb to legumes, is everywhere. From some of the best seafood chowders in seaside pubs to artisan Arcadias in local markets, as well as a plethora of fine dining experiences across the whole island, contemporary Ireland is now a land to feast in.

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Things not to do in Ireland…

Add to already congested roads, especially in summer. There are great holidays that take you across the island, north and south, by train. You can also sail there from Scotland, and hiking trails abound, with a well oiled infrastructure of guesthouses, restaurants and of course pubs en route to give walkers the traditional Irish welcome. As well as walking holiday companies that transport your bags for you, as you mosey over mountains and seek out secret coves.

Ignore Northern Ireland. The mountains, lakes, rivers and coast that Ireland is famous for, don’t stop because of a line on the map. Although sadly, some tourists still resist it because of years of conflict. This officially came to an end in 2007 when, after years of negotiations following the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, both sides of Northern Ireland’s political divide came together to form a government. From super chic Belfast, to the colossal Causeway Coast, walk the highways and byways of Northern Ireland, and go in peace.

Having said that, do read up on politics before you go. It is not uncommon for English people to visit and say things like “I really don’t get the Irish problem. You are all so friendly. How come you don’t get along?” Read up on the 800 years of history just a bit, and you will see why ill informed comments won’t get Irish eyes smiling. Oh, and nor will “top of the morning to you”. Because no one actually says that in Ireland.