Best time to go to Kazakhstan

Kazakhstan is criss-crossed by trade routes that for centuries carried merchants, silk and horses, as well as culture, ideas and politics, between Europe and the Far East. Originating around 500 BCE and used for around 2,000 years as Chinese, Roman, Persian, Mongolian, Muslim and Greek empires rose and fell, the Silk Road is lined with stunning cities – some ruined, some very much still alive – temples, bazaars, monuments and mosques. Follow the ancient trails in Kazakhstan alone – or on longer voyages through Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and on into China.

The world’s 9th largest country is also one of its least densely populated – leaving an awful lot of vast, empty steppe, mountain and tundra to lose yourself in. Gaze out the window on epic drives, trek ancient mountain paths, camp out under the stars – and make the most of the space and distant horizons – a literal breath of fresh air for most travellers.

It may be famed for its empty landscapes – but there are people in Kazakhstan, too; tucked between the mountain folds, herding livestock across the steppe, trading in bazaars much as they did centuries ago – and of course, living rather modern lives in the surprisingly cosmopolitan streets of Almaty. Tour leaders help break the ice as you meet Old Believers, or camp out near the tents of a nomadic Kazakh family in the Altai Mountains.

Swig the mare’s milk. Kumis may be a popular drink in Central Asia, but it’s not particularly suited to Western palates. Try it, by all means, but sip rather than gulp – this fermented milk has a sickly, cheesy punch (as well as a small amount of alcohol) that might make you gag. They say that what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, though – and given this was the drink of choice of greats such as Genghis Khan and Attila the Hun, it might be worth persevering…

Base your perceptions on Borat. Sacha Baron Cohen’s unhinged creation put Kazakhstan on the map – but don’t expect to find anything resembling Borat here. However, while the initial Kazakh reaction to the 2006 film was one of outrage, the country gradually came round to the comedy character who managed to put Kazakhstan on the map, and saw it as a rather good – if unconventional – PR opportunity.

Leave your passport behind. You must carry it with you at all times – the original, not a copy.

Snap away. Photography is prohibited in many places, including some official buildings, airports and shops, so be cautious with your camera and check with your tour leader before taking any photos in towns and cities. In rural areas, be sensitive to local culture. Many people still lead highly traditional lives, far from mass tourism – so never take photos without striking up a conversation first, then asking permission. Better still, put your camera away for a much more meaningful encounter for both parties.