Northern Cyprus travel guide

Discover the lesser visited side of Cyprus as you step back in time and enjoy the warmth and hospitality of Turkish-Cypriots living in the North. This Northern Cyprus travel guide explains why you should cross the UN Green Line in Nicosia and see what lies beyond. Mountain trails, Mediterranean views and more wild donkeys than you can wave a carrot at – although this isn't advisable.

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Northern Cyprus travel guide

EU annexation has left Northern Cyprus like a time capsule, especially in the ancient cities of Famagusta and Salamis where archaeological excavations have been placed on hold. The mountain village of Bellapais continues to offer serene peace from within ruined abbey walls, as sea turtles nest on the secluded sand of the Karpas Peninsula and wild donkeys bray at walkers on dusty tracks.

Whether you're into wild orchids, crusader castles or migratory birds, Northern Cyprus ticks some pretty significant boxes. This is a side to Cyprus that many seeking sunshine down south will miss.

The horseshoe-shaped harbour town of Kyrenia makes for a great base – outside of summer – and presents a chance to meander through a meze of modern marinas and Old Town alleyways. Turkish-Cypriots are incredibly hospitable and don't deserve to be cut off any longer, but so far, reunification negotiations have always failed. Find out more in our Northern Cyprus holidays travel guide.

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Things to do in Northern Cyprus…

Wander between monasteries and mountains, crusader castles and dusty donkey tracks, as the blue hues of the Mediterranean tempt you in for a dip or at least a pause for thought. Northern Cyprus has an excellent variety of gradients from the coastline around Kyrenia to rugged 13km routes through the pines and along the ridge of the Besparmak Mountains. Find a few more in our Cyprus walking guide.

Peer into the past. Greek, Persian, Roman and Ottoman empires have all left their mark on Northern Cyprus, especially in the ancient ruins around Salamis and Famagusta. The Crusader castles – Buffavento, Saint Hilarion and Kantara – are also really impressive and offer insight into the region during the Byzantine era as well as breathtaking views via lots of steep stone steps.

Get on your bike. Flat coastal routes either side of Kyrenia are perfect for a pootle whilst sandy stretches along the Karpas Peninsula and certain sections of the Besparmak Trail are ideal for mountain bikers. Check out our Cyprus cycling guide for routes on both sides of the border.

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Things not to do in Northern Cyprus…

Opt for a Full English. There are plenty of Brits in Northern Cyprus, especially Kyrenia, and all day English pub breakfasts have inevitably followed. Outside of Kyrenia and Nicosia, however, life in Northern Cyprus remains relatively untouched by tourism with villages like Bellapais, Lapta and Malatya offering opportunities to try delicious dolmasi, kebabs, borek and meze in traditional Turkish tavernas.

Touch down in Turkey. Due to continued isolation by the EU, travellers flying into Ercan airport have to touch down on Turkish tarmac first. This means a six-hour journey from Blighty. Alternatively, fly into Larnaca, in the south, and cross the border in Nicosia to continue your holiday in the north. It takes approximately 1.5hrs from Larnaca to Kyrenia, including the border crossing.

Do anything other than look at the donkeys.There are currently around 500 untethered donkeys roaming around the Karpas Peninsula. Once domesticated but now protected, these former beasts of burden come with a strict look-but-don't-touch cautionary advice – you have been warned.

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Written by Chris Owen

Northern Cyprus travel guide