There’s magic in the forest of Motovun. Alternately shrouded in fog and dappled in sunlight, it’s easy to believe in the Croatian folktales of the giants who lived here.
Of course, then, there’s treasure secreted away beneath the sticky clay soil: truffles that burrow into the roots of the old oak trees. Local truffle hunter Giancarlo Zigante and his dog, Diane, once dug up the
largest white truffle in the world here. He could have auctioned it off for a small fortune in Italy, but instead shared his 1.3kg find with the town in a combination of community pride and clever advertising. (The press and Croatian president were invited too.)
Istrian truffles are as delicious as their cousins across the border in Piedmont – and yet, like Giancarlo, you’ll find cooks shaving them generously over
fritaja (omelettes) and bowls of
fuzi pasta that cost half the price of their Italian counterparts.
It’s only in recent years that truffle hunters could openly celebrate and sell their finds. The trade was illegal until the 1990s, when Yugoslavia dissolved and local people could set up their own businesses. A taster of this storied history – and of the truffles themselves – is one of the highlights of our
Venice to Split tours.