Guide to trekking the Inca Trail

Even the Inca Trail itself is misleadingly named. The Incas built an incredible 40,000km network of stone paths, known as Cápac Ñan, to reach the far corners of their empire. These stretched as far north as the Ecuadorian capital of Quito, across into the Bolivian Altiplano and Argentina, and down as far as central Chile, facilitating communications and enabling them to maintain control of their land. All of these roads are Inca trails - just a short 46km stretch forms the "classic" Inca Trail. This lies off the main pathway, and its remoteness and rough terrain mean that Machu Picchu remained hidden for some four centuries; discovered by neither the plundering conquistadores nor the colonial powers. Even today, the dense forests bordering the trail have not been fully explored, and are likely to conceal yet more ruins and paths, adding to the mystery of the trail.

The Inca Trail has changed dramatically in the century since Bingham's expedition. Once, brave adventurers could arrive in Cuzco and set out on the trail when they wished, but tourism increased beyond control. Concerned by damage to the trail, the surrounding ruins and to Machu Picchu itself, the Peruvian government has gradually brought in strict regulations and quotas; 500 permits a day (of which around 300 go to porters and guides) are issued for the trail. Unguided hikes are not permitted, and all guides must be licensed. Reconstruction work has been ongoing in Machu Picchu, and some of the houses have been "rebuilt" to give a better idea of what they would have looked like. Fortunately, limited numbers on the Trail mean that alternative routes, such as Salkantay and Lares, are becoming increasingly popular, as no permits need to be obtained for these. This is sealing the region's reputation as one of the world's best hiking destinations, as well as easing pressure on the classic trail and spreading the economic benefits of tourism to the surrounding communities. Given their remoteness, the exploration of these undeveloped, uncrowded routes maintains the awe and sense of discovery inspired by these legendary paths.