Norwegian fjords

What would the Norwegian coast be without its fjords? Well, it would be a lot shorter. Measure the western shore of Norway in a straight line and it’s 2,500km, but measure all the inlets and wiggles made by the fjords you’d get a number more than 10 times higher. With their legends of trolls and their twisting views, there’s something a little tricky about their glassy-eyed beauty. Boats hover hesitantly, as if at the entrance of some mountain king’s hall. It’s only right to enjoy this natural wonder as reverently as you can: by hiking, biking, and even, on some fjords, silent electric ferries. But where to start?
Come and celebrate the Stegosaurus-like coast of Norway – all ridges and edges, and very, very old indeed.
Two of the most famous fjords, Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord, are UNESCO-listed, and found in southwest Norway. Further south you’ll find Lysefjord, from which you’ll return evangelising about the beauty of Pulpit Rock. Then there’s Sognefjord, the longest and deepest of the lot. Incredibly, only 10 fjords bear the majority of the cruise ship traffic. As for the thousand or so others – they are yours to explore.

The Norwegian fjords are...

Mysterious, beautiful and capable of absorbing a lot of admirers. You can still find plenty of unexplored pockets.

The Norwegian fjords aren’t...

For staying on cruise control – you don’t have to stick to a ship. Hike up the Hardangerjøkulen glacier, cycle through Sunnhordland and kayak along Nærøyfjord.

Things to do in the Norwegian fjords

Travel by boat. The best way to see a few dozen bodies of water? On a boat, of course. Norway has a great ferry system and is currently moving to launch more hybrid, electric and even hydrogen-powered vessels. There is currently a fully-electric vessel operating in Nærøyfjord. If you want your route planned for you, then a small ship cruise is the best way to reach as much of the coast as you can. Try a family-friendly farm stay. Think of Norway and you might imagine red clapboard houses with bright white eaves and a sauna at the back – well, they’re real, they’re red, and you can stay in one. Some working farms around the fjords welcome guests. Wood fires and cosy rooms await, and all sorts of seasonal produce, from mountain trout to reindeer, might cross your plate. Pack your hiking boots. Don’t neglect the ‘fjell’ (mountain) part of Norway’s beloved ‘fjells and fjords’ landscape. Norway has 44 mountainous national parks where you have ‘freedom to roam’ – the 1957 Outdoor Recreation Act ensured that anyone can enjoy the landscape. Climb Molden peak above Sognefjord on a summer night and catch a high-altitude 4am sunrise, or hike across the glacier plateau at Folgefonna. Small group, week-long hiking holidays lead you to the best spots, while tailor made tours can often include a day’s guided hiking.

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Things not  to do in the Norwegian fjords

Don’t dismiss public transport. On a small group hiking holiday in Norway’s fjords you’ll rely on ferries to get to the best trailheads. Luckily, transport around Norway’s fjords isn’t just reliable, it’s also beautiful, like the 20km ferry journey along Geriangerfjord (gorgeous all the way), or the Flåm railway, which takes the steepest, most scenic route to Myrdal mountain station. Even getting to the region is pleasant. The train from Oslo to Bergen travels through a medley of meadows and mountains, while keeping your carbon footprint in check. Don’t just drink Aquavit. Norway’s water is amazing. It’s delicious straight out of the tap, supplies most of the country’s power (hydroelectricity represents 98 percent of Norway’s electricity supply), and where would the fjords be without it? In some places you can even refill your bottle straight from the waterfall – though it’s always best to check with your guide first. Don’t forget your long-range lens. Norway’s wildlife is joyous and whether you’re hiking, biking or just on a short break, keep an eye out. In the fjords, you can spot otters, seals and porpoises, plus whales in November, hunting herring. The further north you go, the more animals outnumber Norwegians. Trollfjord is the home to many white-tailed eagles. Some tour guides hold out fish, tempting the birds down to dance at their fingertips. Let them be; use your long-range lens to see the birds at a more dignified distance.
Written by Eloise Barker
Photo credits: [Page banner: Jeff Sheldon] [Is/Isn't: Christiann Koepke] [Things to do in the Norwegian fjords: Wes Grant]