Orkney travel guide

This Orkney travel guide is just a quick glimpse of just some of the island idylls that await in this archipelago of over seventy islands, 16km off the north tip of Scotland. Glimmering with gorgeousness, they could also be described as Scotland’s Northern Lights. And of course you can see the other Northern Lights, or Aurora there too. Packed with ancient cultural heritage, dramatic landscapes, and welcoming communities who are proud Orcadians, read more of what this archipelago has to offer.

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Orkney travel guide

People who live in Orkney are called Orcadian, which is sort of apt because it is reminiscent of the word ‘Arcadian’, the old Greek word pertaining to a rural place that is deemed to be perfect. Actually Orkney is an archipelago of over 70 islands located 16km off the Scottish mainland, only 20 of which are inhabited, each proffering a little pocket of perfection. To get a picture of what Orkney is all about, make one of your first stops the Highland Park Distillery. It captures all aspects of Orcadian history, culture and natural heritage in one sensual sip.

Puffins are regulars in Orkney, where they are called 'tammie norries', meaning 'bashful men'. There is nothing bashful about Orcadians though. They are bursting with pride for their beloved islands.

Not only because they smoke barley over peat cut from the ancient Hobbister Moor, or because they use traditional methods to hand turn their malt or create their caskets; but also because their Orcadian team is made up of skilled boat makers, traditional musicians, and master craftstmen. It doesn’t get more perfect than that.

Orkney is...

an archipelago of 70 islands, and each has its own history, cultural and natural glory.

Orkney isn't...

as inaccessible as you might think. There are four ferry routes, and direct flights from four Scottish cities.

Things to do in Orkney...

Pack your walking boots because this is archipelagic heaven when it comes to hiking. On The Mainland there are vast, remote beaches and remote elevated grasslands, but you also have some of the most magnificent cliff top walks on Hoy, as well as its highest peak at Ward Hill. If you can make it out to walk along the west coast of Westray to the lighthouse at Noup Head you will really have had an Orcadian odyssey to remember. If ancient archaeology, stone circles and prehistoric ruins rock your boat, then get on that boat. The oldest known settlement is at Knap of Howar and is a Neolithic farmstead on Papa Westray island, dating back to 3500 BCE. Orphir, on The Mainland, has Scotland’s only remaining Viking round church. The highlight for many visitors is Skara Brae, part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site on The Mainland, which also includes the Standing Stones of Stenness, Maeshowe passage grave, and the Ring of Brodgar. Food in Orkney is all about freshly caught fish and seafood and there are plenty of places to tuck in to these and other island treats. And with two local breweries, Orkney and Swannay, as well as two superb whisky distilleries, and even a craft gin distillery now, there is no shortage of places to raise a glass either. Or to buy superb gifts.

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Things not to do in Orkney...

Giant cruise ships with thousands of passengers are now berthing at Kirkwall, the capital, Hatston and Stromness. Although cruise ships have often favoured Orkney as part of northern itineraries, the numbers have gone through the roof of late, with passengers sometimes outnumbering the archipelago population sixfold. Controversial in terms of their benefits, we are not fans of giant cruise ships at Responsible Travel. Walking and staying locally, yes. Giant, floating, all inclusive hotels, not so much.

Call the archipelago the Orkneys. Just as you wouldn’t say the New Zealands or the Irelands, it is quite simply, Orkney. Singular or plural, as it comes from the Old Norse word Orkneyjar meaning ‘Seal Islands’. Go there in October when the famous ‘selkies’ are giving birth; you will see, and hear, why.

Go on about clans and tartans. The heritage in Orkney is Norse, who settled here in the 8th century. Gaelic isn’t even spoken here and place names are mostly from Old Norse. Orkney was, in fact, part of the Scandinavian kingdom until 1468. They have summer solstice festivals and an arts festival called Magnus, and there is an annual Norwegian Constitution Day in May to celebrate close ties with the main event at Magnus Cathedral. And check out the Orkney flag: a blue and yellow Nordic cross on a red background.