The Salkantay Trek in Peru

The standard Salkantay route takes five days – four on foot and a grand finale exploring Machu Picchu. However, as you’re not restricted by permits or to travelling in a group, there are variations that can take you a little further off the beaten track. Saying that, a typical trek might look something like this:

Day 1:
The looming snow-tipped Humantay and Salkantay mountains dominate the start of your hike at Soraypampa, around six hours’ drive from Cusco. Here you’ll meet your porters and mules, before a gentle two- to three-hour 8km hike eases you to your first campsite at the foot of Salkantay at 3,800m. Day 2:
Something the Inca Trail and all of its alternatives have in common is a toughie of a second day, and the Salkantay Trail is no exception. Over seven to eight hours’ walking you’ll tackle the highest pass on the route – the Salkantay Pass (or Apacheta, named after the little piles of stones left as offerings to the mountain gods) at 4,600m and you’ll need to take it slow. The air is thin at this altitude and as you pass the 4,000m mark you’ll likely start to feel a bit rough. Your reward is a day of huge contrasts: Andean influences give way to the Amazon as your descent takes you from high altitude barren scree down through grasslands and into humid, orchid-filled cloud forest.

The Salkantay Trail might not boast quite the same crowds as the classic Inca Trail but don’t think you’ll have a mountain wilderness all to yourself. Yes, by choosing this route you’ll be adding one less footprint to the overburdened classic route, but the Salkantay is popular in its own right – second only to the Inca Trail – but without the strict permitting, regulations and annual closures in place that keep the latter in shape. It means the Salkantay route does have some problems with litter along its paths and you’ll need to be careful that your trek doesn’t add to this. Solutions are simple: pack out any rubbish you create, carry a refillable water bottle and pick up litter you encounter along the way.

In this part of Peru, at least, problems for porters are becoming less commonplace, with more protection for porters in place as standard on most treks. Kathy Jarvis explains more: “Porters are actually pretty well regulated on the Inca Trail now. You don’t see porters wearing traditional clothing anymore; instead they have trainers and boots and waterproofs, etc. It’s normal now for them to be insured, to be guaranteed somewhere to sleep and to have adequate food to eat. On the classic Inca Trail – where porters carry quite a lot of gear – there are lots of checks on weight along the trail.

“Porters are only really used to carry loads on the classic Inca Trail where there are too many steps for mules or donkeys. For the Salkantay and Lares treks you will be accompanied by donkeys or mules. Throughout the rest of the Andes, except above the snow line, it is normal to use pack animals rather than porters.”

You’ll want to keep an eye on the beasts of burden accompanying your trip to make sure they are happy and healthy – our friends at British NGO Brooke have provided us with a checklist for travellers to ensure the fair and humane treatment of working mules and donkeys.