Amalfi Coast travel guide

A thalassocracy was the Greek word for a marine power, and the Amalfi Coast was one of the Mediterranean’s leading shipping powers as far back as the 10th century, making it one of the region’s Maritime Republics. Originally a Roman colony, it then became the Duchy of Amalfi after the fall of the Empire, and the capital was the eponymous city of this independent republic. John Webster’s famous play, The Duchess of Malfi is loosely based on 16th century wife of the Duke of Amalfi.

Amalfi traders were renowned for their commercial activities across the Mediterranean into the east, with maritime trade continuing on through the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. Amalfitans, for example, were the first to create a colony in Constantinople.

Like so many economic booms, however, it also crashed, albeit several centuries. Its influential trade position fell during the 13th century, not helped by the proliferation of Ottoman piracy along the coast. You can still see many outposts along the coast to this day protecting it from such attacks, known as Saracen forts. Progress was also halted by an earthquake in 1343 which destroyed the city of Amalfi’s harbour, the republic’s trading hub. One of Amalfi’s finest legacies before things started to take a turn for the worse was, according to many (although others claim it to be myth), the invention of the modern day magnetic compass, designed by Amalfitan Flavio Gioia. You can see a statue of him – man or myth, take your pick – overlooking the sea in the city of Amalfi today.

Amalfi’s tragedies continued when, in 1643, a third of its residents died as a result of the bubonic plague. The region became extremely impoverished and local people went back to their traditional way of living by farming, fishing, growing olives, grapes, the now famous citrus fruits and also working on traditional crafts. Meanwhile, the region’s noble families moved to Naples, while hardy Amalfitans upped their skills, the area becoming known for its goldsmiths, blacksmiths and calafati – the workers who repaired the ships to make them waterproof.

Naples was invaded by the French in 1806, which had started with Napoleon Bonaparte’s army moving south from the end of the 18th century. On 8 February 1806 the French invasion force of 40,000 soldiers crossed into Naples. Led by Napoleon’s brother Giuseppe Bonaparte, they were met with little resistance and on 30 March 1806 Napoleon issued a decree installing Joseph as King of Naples and Sicily.

The Bonaparte brother had one major influence on the Amalfi coast that was to change it forever, and that was the building of a road between Naples and Amalfi. This opened the region, literally, to many new visitors, such as Henrik Ibsen, the famous Norwegian playwright, who lived here for over 20 years. His most celebrated play, A Doll’s House, is said to be inspired by his retreats along the Amalfi coast. With artists, artisans, fine produce and accessibility, everything timed well for the new invasion just around the corner – by tourists. Many of the travelling elite taking on the Grand Tour had already included Naples on their itineraries, but with writers such as Ibsen or composers such as Wagner spreading the word, as well as artists from the great costaioli or coastal painters’ movement bringing its colour to many people’s eyes, Amalfi’s tourism was destined for success.

In 1997 the Amalfi Coast, or Costiera Amalfitana to give it the proper name, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Not only because of its extraordinary natural beauty, but also to protect its ancient communities, the architectural wonders of Amalfi town and Ravello, and celebrate the art and traditional agriculture of the region.