Tahiti, French Polynesia

Though little more than a dot in the Pacific Ocean when looked at on a map, Tahiti is an incredibly beautiful dot. Formed by volcanic activity into two overlapping parts connected by an isthmus, this pineapple-shaped island is the largest in French Polynesia, home to the capital Papeete, as well as the country’s only international airport, and nearly three-quarters of the population.

Rainforest-clad mountains are cut through with rivers and waterfalls, while vibrant coral reefs ring the island beneath the warm sea, which averages 26-28°C year-round. And although it’s often just the starting point for an island hopping holiday, Tahiti as the cultural hub of French Polynesia merits spending a few days. Or even longer, allowing you to also hike the interior, kayak and snorkel in blissfully picturesque lagoons and meet local craftspeople in their workshops.

Located in the Society Islands, the archipelago where most of French Polynesia’s population lives, the island is divided into two sections, Tahiti Nui (Big Tahiti, the northwestern part) and Tahiti Iti (Small Tahiti, the southeastern part). Papeete is right at the top of Tahiti Nui, while Tahiti Iti is sparsely populated and wilder.

As French Polynesia’s only international airport is here, most of our holidays begin and end in Tahiti, from luxury family getaways to honeymoons. It’s also the departure point for one of our more unusual small ship cruises, sailing aboard a supply ship as the crew delivers supplies around the Marquesas Islands.

Tahiti may be the best island to stay on if you want to explore French Polynesian culture. A walking tour of the capital, Papeete, with a local guide is an excellent way to start. You might wander through lively markets, see the Notre Dame Cathedral from which all road distances on the island are measured, and meet a host of artisans in their workshops or selling their wares.

Handicrafts are a popular souvenir from Tahiti. You might pick out a colourful pareu, a versatile piece of traditional clothing that can serve as a shawl, a beach towel or even an impromptu picnic cloth. Handmade quilts, known as tifaifai, are much more than simple bed linen. Typically bearing designs inspired by nature, during Polynesian wedding ceremonies they are wrapped around the happy couple, who will then keep the tifaifai for life, perhaps hanging it on a wall.

If your home is already stuffed with handicrafts or you have limited space in your luggage, perhaps you would prefer a tattoo as a reminder of your visit. The word actually originates from the Tahitian language – tatau. Your skin art reflects not only your tribe and territory, but also your social rank. Other lightweight souvenirs of Tahitian culture include pearl jewellery – look for farms that grow their pearls according to sustainable principles and perhaps visit the pearl museum in Papeete.

The Heiva Festival in July is one of Tahiti’s largest cultural events, spanning a couple of weeks. You might watch a fast-paced coconut husking competition, or an outrigger canoe race, or a stone lifting event. But central to the Heiva celebrations is song and dance, which have historically been linked to every aspect of island culture, from prayers to storytelling to the welcome every traveller gets when they arrive at the airport. Hips shake and hands weave gracefully in the air to the rhythmic, pulsating beats of the Tahitian drums.

No night out in Papeete is complete without rolling up to a roulotte. These roadside food vans serve up mammoth portions of typical Tahitian street food, mingled with Asian and French dishes, too. One hatch might be offering chow mein; the one next door, delicious poisson cru (raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk); the one beyond that, irresistible deep-fried doughnuts.

The Sunday food market in the capital is another fun way to explore the flavours of Polynesian cuisine, and if you’re driving around the island you’ll regularly pass roadside stalls selling freshly picked mangoes and pineapples.

Tahiti offers a wealth of ways to wade into its natural wonders. Slip into the warm sea to dive with hammerhead sharks and manta rays, or snorkel the island’s well-preserved coral reefs. Join a whale watching trip – hundreds of humpback whales migrate here between July and November – or paddle over the peaceful Te Pari lagoon in the southeast of the island.

And while you might be thinking sandals or espadrilles for Tahiti, don’t rule out hiking shoes, either. There are some lovely walks in the mountainous, all-but uninhabited interior. Guided jeep tours are another way to explore this side of Tahiti, one that most visitors see little of.