Guyana is where the mighty Amazon rainforest meets the Atlantic by way of savannah – a jumble of ecosystems that sees it brimming with wildlife, most notably 870 species of birds, plus tapirs, caimans and the elusive jaguar. There are people here, too – but only 750,000, clustered mostly along the coast. Much of the interior remains uninhabited, save for a few Amerindian villages deep within the jungle; a snapshot of pre Columbian life. Here, far from human presence, the wildlife seems undisturbed by the occasional intrepid visitor. As this Guyana travel guide shows, those wishing to discover this enigma for themselves will encounter challenges – starting with simply getting here. Travelling around could be euphemistically described as “eventful”, and hotels are replaced with rustic huts or swaying hammocks. But you don’t come for the comforts – you come for the astonishing nature, and the life-affirming experience of being surrounded by virgin rainforest in which few will ever have the chance to set foot.

The adventure begins as soon as you leave the capital, Georgetown. There are few roads in Guyana, and the ones that do exist are not paved – so expect to fly, travel by river or offroad in 4x4s to explore deeper into the interior. This lack of development and infrastructure is all part of Guyana’s appeal, of course, so do try and make the most of it while you are here – and keep eyes peeled on long drives for creatures emerging from the jungle. The other way to travel is on two feet; trekking holidays here take you even further off the beaten track, for a real rainforest odyssey.