West coast Iceland cruise

To the surprise of absolutely no one, the west coast of Iceland has inspired some of the country’s most epic sagas. A small ship cruise here leapfrogs around a cloven coastline of cracked peninsulas, dormant (and not-so-dormant) volcanoes and strange islets clinging on by a mere sliver of land. It really is all high drama here.

Small ship cruises to the west coast take full advantage of the fact that most tourists tread the well-worn route between Reykjavik, the Golden Circle, Blue Lagoon and Akureyri. You’ll swing by the echoingly empty Westfjords instead, with its snapped-off cliffs and hollering humpbacks. Down south, the Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) were born out of underwater volcanic eruptions. And you’ve got tongue-twisters like Snaefellsnes in-between, where puffin cliffs and black beaches dot-and-dash the south coast, while volcanoes and waterfalls spring from the north.

The perks of travelling Iceland’s west coast by small ship are many. These trips sit at the opposite end of the spectrum to the all-inclusive giants. The boat could be stocked with kayaks for exploring fjords, Icelandic strawberries warmed in geothermal hot houses, and a library of Icelandic sagas. It won’t be a cross-world voyage, either. Your cruise will be a week of really getting to know – and investing in – the communities that hunker down in Iceland’s wild west.

You’ll sail across Breidafjordur on your way between Snaefellsnes and the Westfjords. This wide bay is as tidal as Iceland gets, making it a hit with birds after a changeable intertidal buffet. It also sprinkles out over 2,000 islands – perfect perches for the thousands of migratory birds heading north-west to Greenland. Watch out for white-tailed eagles diving for herring, tuxedoed guillemots balancing on rock shelves, and extra-large northern fulmars.

The Westfjords claw out of the northwest coast in a series of fjords (surprise, surprise), smooth beaches and flat-capped mountains that swoop down to the North Atlantic. Raudasandur Beach lays out bright gold sand, while curious puffins stack the Latrabjarg cliffs. Pingeyri is a pocket-sized Viking village that crouches in the Westfjord Alps. Best of all, it’s far out of reach of Reykjavik day-trippers, so the views are mostly yours – bar a few gate-crashing humpback whales.

Most cruises spend eight days or so dipping in and out of the fjords of the west coast. Alternatively, you could explore the west as part of a longer voyage that circumnavigates the whole of Iceland or moves on to Greenland, or the Faroe Islands. Small ship cruises mean you’ll be with a group of 30-60 passengers. These are not one of the floating hotels that have contributed to Iceland’s overtourism woes, but yachts and small expedition vessels. Boats differ from cruise to cruise, but you usually get a cabin with an en suite bathroom. Breakfast and dinner are usually included, too. Most cruises to the west coast run in July and August, when you get surprisingly decent weather, long days and calmer oceans. Saying that, Iceland prides itself on its unpredictable weather, so pack warm gear and waterproofs too. Just when you think you’re in the middle of nowhere, you’ll see rising steam – and then a perfectly formed thermal pool in the middle of a mountain-ringed meadow. Moral of the story: always keep your swimming gear with you...and test the water temperature before you slide in. Day trips are often optional – and Iceland isn’t cheap – so do check with the tour operator regarding what’s included and what’s not.