Madeira travel guide

Cristiano Ronaldo is Madeira’s most famous son, and despite his supersonic football career, he’s never forgotten his roots. Mind you, given how jaw-droppingly beautiful Madeira is, that’s hardly surprising. Lying southwest of Portugal (it’s officially an autonomous region of Portugal) and above the Canary Islands, this volcanic, subtropical island is ringed with reefs, and carved through with jagged mountains, valleys and ravines draped in lush vegetation.
Madeira is a joy to wander through, dotted with isolated villages, fishing communities and stunning natural features, many connected by water courses you can walk along.
Madeira holidays usually begin in the picturesque capital, Funchal, where you can join a boat cruise out to seek whales and dolphins or dive into the wine and coffee culture, before heading further afield around the dramatic coastline and into the interior. This is an exceptional place for walking, and with superb snorkelling, sea kayaking and biking, families will also find it easy to fall for this island. Read on in our Madeira travel guide.

Madeira is…

crisscrossed with levadas, aqueducts that provide water and hydroelectricity to mountain communities and farms. They double up as very scenic walking paths.

Madeira isn’t…

just for grown ups. The island is a paradise of adventurous activities for kids, from sea kayaking to canyoning and exploring volcanic caves.

Things to do in Madeira…

Madeira is an exceptional destination for walking holidays. A network of levadas – irrigation channels – spiders across the island, carved into the mountainside to carry water to the arid south. Today they still serve their original function, but they also serve as walking and mountain biking routes, passing through some of Madeira’s most beguiling scenery. Walking in Madeira requires a decent level of fitness – this is mountain country after all – and as some of the levadas go through tunnels, carrying a torch is advisable, too. Island hopping. Madeira is the largest island of a tiny Atlantic archipelago, and some itineraries take the short ferry trip northeast to Porto Santo. The vegetation here is sparser, but there is a stunning 9km stretch of golden sand to stroll along barefoot, as well as the option for guided hiking or a jeep tour. To the south of Funchal meanwhile lie the Desertas Islands, uninhabited by humans but home to a colony of monk seals and many species of bird. You can sail out there in a traditional wooden gulet, a very elegant way to travel. Madeira is renowned for its whale and dolphin watching, with over 20 species to be found in the sea between April and October. Small boat trips depart from Funchal harbour, or you can have fun bouncing through the waves in a RIB boat, sometimes accompanied by a marine biologist. There are few more life-affirming experiences than snorkelling with the dolphins.

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Things not  to do in Madeira …

Madeira may be a Portuguese territory, but don’t expect the same climate. Some visitors anticipate non-stop sunshine and can be caught out by downpours, which have the potential to make some walks challenging. In the winter and spring the temperature is pleasant and there are far fewer people around, but there is a greater likelihood of full-on rainy days. Better to pack waterproofs and not need them, than need them and not have them. Go in with no walking experience. A mountainous ridge runs through the centre of Madeira, and some of the more demanding trails can be pretty steep and narrow. While you certainly don’t need to be in training for months beforehand to walk here, you will want to be in reasonably good shape, and to have a good pair of walking boots or shoes broken in. Poles can be helpful on descents, too. If you prefer, there is always the option of a tailormade, self guided walking holiday in Madeira where routes can be adjusted according to your requirements. Leave the kids at home. From sea kayaking to snorkelling with dolphins, cable cars to canyoning, Madeira is an adventure playground for children aged eight and up. One day they might be paddling in natural rock pools and exploring lava caves, the next mountain biking through the forest or swimming under a waterfall. If your kids aren’t clamouring to go back again the next year we’d be very surprised.
Written by Rob Perkins
Photo credits: [Page banner: Allie_Caulfield] [Is/Isn't: Jörg Schmalenberger] [Things to do: Gunnar Grimnes]