Alternatively, head south into the desert to escape the Romans and see
Biskra, dip down to the town of
El Oued, sitting in the shadow of the Grand Erg Oriental in the Sahara. Next, explore the
M’Zab valley, where the Mozabite people live a traditional existence across five
ksours (fortified villages). These villages have distinctive, desert-proof architecture, and you’ll find Mozabite culture very distinct from the rest of Algeria. You may then go on to
El Menia, a 9
th-century
ksar (fortified village) before looping up to see the medieval mosques and palaces of
Tlemcen and ending at Algeria’s second city,
Oran, 420km west of Algiers.
You can go on small group or tailor made history tours in Algeria. For a comprehensive tour, expect to spend around 15 days in the country. You could do a shorter trip, and still see a lot: Algiers, Tipasa, Djemila with its amazing mosaic museum and Constantine, a city with 3,000 years of history, can be squeezed into a
five-day Algeria history trip.
Tourism infrastructure isn’t very well developed in Algeria. Don’t expect visitor centres or interactive exhibitions at historic sites, and not all sites will be in good repair. Entrance fees go towards conservation – and your visit also highlights the value of the sites. Standing alone, seeing the empty windswept hillside framed by the 12m-tall triumphal Arch of Trajan in Timgad, you may think, like the Romans:
this is to live.