Climbing Mount Toubkal in winter
“The second climb is something that a lot of other tours don't offer and that a lot of people don't know about,” points out Trehan Francis. “A lot of the group left thinking, yeah we came here for Toubkal and that was amazing, but the second climb we did – Ouanoukrim – and the guys that we did it with, made the trip.”
What does climbing Mount Toubkal in winter entail?


Equipment
“The big difference between the summer and the winter trip is the accommodation and the route you take,” says Trehan Francis from Exodus. The typical summer trek takes a zigzag approach to the ascent, skirting boulders and volcanic scree on a serpentine path that takes at least two days to complete. Whereas in the winter, you take a more straightforward route: straight up. “Because you can,” explains Trehan Francis, “it depends on the route conditions, but when I went there was plenty of snow and we used crampons and ice axes the whole way through.” He adds, “Obviously you're taking two steps forward and one step back, with the snow pushing you down, so it takes you about the same amount of time.”Ice axes and crampons are normally necessary during all winter departures and high, exposed sections near the summit may also require ropes to guarantee a safe ascent. Previous winter climbing experience will help you pick up the skills faster, but the trip is designed to accommodate beginners. “You're taken out for the afternoon to learn how to use the ice axes and the crampons properly,” says Trehan Francis. “It's a bit of fun as well. I think very few people who were in my group had actually done anything like that before and everyone was completely comfortable when we got up there to do it themselves.”
Accommodation
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Berber villages
Unlike many mountain ranges, the High Atlas region is home to thriving local communities, scattered everywhere among the valleys. These hamlets make their living mainly form farming or tourism – most mountain guides will be from the area and can offer trekkers an invaluable insight into local life. Climbing motivation also comes in the form of tasty, traditional Moroccan dishes, cooked up by local chefs who accompany your trek. “The food was amazing throughout,” says Trehan Francis from Exodus. “Tajines and local food – really warm, hearty meals that everyone was surprised by.”
Much of Morocco’s rural population live in poverty and levels of education, especially for women, are very low. In remote mountain communities this is compounded by conservative attitudes that mean most girls are not even taught to read or write, let alone train as skilled mountain leaders. Cultural barriers still dictate what constitutes traditional women’s work yet, despite this, Exodus is working to help women overcome these hurdles and meet the high safety standards required to work with them as guides.