Responsible tourism in Peru

When Paddington Bear famously landed at the eponymous station from Peru, he gave people a very hard stare if they upset him. His Peruvian name was Pastuso, by the way, and these famous stories by Michael Bond were critiqued for years to come as a study of immigration and comment on the dominant culture being ignorant of immigrants' needs. So, if you find yourself in Peru, with a metaphorical tag around your neck saying "Please look after me", think of Paddington. Seek help from the right people, inform yourself about their culture, be patient, support them in the best way possible, and you will be most certainly cared for in the best possible way. And hard stares will stay where they belong - in fiction.

It is almost impossible to get a quiet day at Machu Picchu, but in order to avoid the tramplefests, which are basically throughout June to August, head there April/May or September/October. It is also wise to keep outside the busy times of 10am-2pm when tourist droves come by train to hit the Inca Trail. Oh, and Sundays are generally quieter. All good reasons for finding a homestay in a local village so that you are nearby and can avoid the worst of the crush. Don't forget, there are many other examples of Inca and pre-Inca ruins in Peru which, on a good day, you might have all to yourself.

If you are going to explore way off the beaten path, with expert guides, with specialist experience, this will cost money. You can't really get this on the cheap if you want to be truly responsible. A decent wage for an expert guide is about $80 per day, not $30, and if your big expedition costs $500 or less, it is unlikely to be fair and square.

If you are hiking, bring planet safe, paraben-free soaps and detergents with you, as well as eco-friendly sun creams, and biodegradeable bags and tissues for when you need to do what Paddington does best in the woods. Although ideally all waste should be carried out. A good hiking company will provide all of this, so ask in advance so that you can see if they are practising what they preach.

Please be respectful when photographing people on your travels. Always ask people if you can take a photo. Not just ask and click, but check that they actually agree to it. If you want to photograph children, ask the parents or adults with them when possible. And if you promise to send them photos, then do follow up on this.

Remember to bring something to cover up with when entering churches and monasteries.

Try dabbling in Quechua, the language of the Incas. If you are heading into the Andes, this will bring a smile to local people and an extra welcome into the bargain. Even though many Quechuas will also speak Spanish, a little nod to their culture is a generous gesture.

There are many tourist trips to see the endangered giant otters of Manu National Park, but the increase in tourist canoes is now believed to be interfering with the otters' natural behaviour patterns. So opt for less invasive forms of nature watching, such as from an observation tower in Cochas Otorongo and Salvador in the Manu Biosphere Reserve.

Go light on the packing because you are going to want to shop in Peru. This puts money straight into local coffers, so leave room for some winter woollies. Alpaca is the big seller, especially in the Sierra, but beware of fakes. Alpaca is expensive, so if you are offered something cheap it is most likely to be acrylic or a mix. Real alpaca feels a little greasy to touch and loses its shape a little if stretched. And if your jumper smells when wet, it's probably llama.

If you are offered mahogany, even if it's something as small as a pair of earrings, just pass. Peru is one of the world's biggest exporters of mahogany, or 'red gold' as it is sometimes called, and yet it is the most destructive form of exploitation. Not only raping virgin rainforest with all its ensuing riches, but also stripping many indigenous communities of their homes and their right to survival. For the price of a pair of earrings you could support Survival International with a quick donation instead, a charity which seeks to protect these communities from illegal invasions of loggers.



It is illegal to trade pre-Columbian pottery or jewellery and more often than not it is fake. If you do, you risk having it confiscated and, at worst, being questioned and fined. Another big no-no when shopping is anything made from feathers. Think tropical birds, think rainforest - and you will think again before buying.

Shoe shining is a popular way for children living in poverty to earn money in Cuzco. There are various views on this, as some children are sent out to work by their parents and actually they are not street children at all. This is a common sense thing. If a child looks like they are in need, then have your shoes shone and give them a few quid. But even better, help a respected Cusco based charity working with street children, such as Yanapay, which also has a restaurant in Ruinas 415, the proceeds of which go towards social projects in Cuzco.

The big San Pedro market in Cuzco is brilliant, though it has been tidied up a bit for tourists. If you prefer a more traditional market flavour, a bit rough but totally real round the edges, check out the old school market Rosaspata. You can read more about the alternative food scene in this lovely blog Cuzco Eats.

Photo credits: [Shopping: USDA Forest Service Alaska Region] [Wildlife volunteering: AmazonCARES] [Logging: Thomas Quirynen/Survival]