Walking holidays in Sardinia

If the myths are to be believed, Sardinia’s first inhabitants were the sons of Hercules, sent here on the completion of Dad’s legendary labours. With a lineage like that it is little wonder that the Mediterranean’s second largest island has bred a population of hardy souls, undaunted by its wild mountains and rocky coastline. Happily, nowadays a Herculean effort is not necessary to enjoy walking in the Mediterranean’s second largest, and wildest island – a reasonable level of fitness coupled with a love of ancient history will take you a long way.

Routes here are varied and dramatic – following coastal cliffs or verdant, forested limestone valleys. Mule trails lead you up into the mountains of Barbagia, so untameable the Romans left this region to its ‘barbarian’ inhabitants, or follow centuries-old tracks to Bronze Age Nuraghe settlements or to mind-boggling Tiscali, an ancient village carved out of the inside of a giant limestone cave.

And don’t forget the sea. Wherever you wander in Sardinia the Mediterranean keeps a watchful eye, calling you back to paddle walk-weary feet in its perfect blue bays.

These holidays will usually combine a few days of five to six hours of walking per day, with other days left free for you to relax and enjoy the leisurely Mediterranean pace of life and the island’s famously pristine beaches.

During your trip you can expect to be based in a family-run guesthouse in one of the traditional small towns within easy reach of some of Sardinia’s best hikes. Walks are guided by an expert local walking specialist and will involve a short transfer to the trailhead and back each day.

As with anywhere in Italy, local restaurants serve up a plethora of delicious dishes to satisfy the heartiest of walkers’ appetites. Roast suckling pig, salsiccia sarda (a cross between salami and sausage) and seafood are specialities here – served up with locally-made olive oil and capra sarda, fiore sardo, pecorino romano and ricotta cheeses. And after a hot day on the trail you’ll definitely have earned a glass or two of delicious Sardinian wine.

Don’t be fooled into thinking Sardinia is ‘just’ an island extension of Italy. The culture here is uniquely different from the mainland, shaped by a succession of rulers from the Phoenicians and Romans to the Spanish (and even the Austrians, for a short while). You’ll walk through relics of these cultures every day in Sardinia – whether the circular remains of Nuraghi houses, the Roman ruins at Tharros, or in the lilt of the indigenous Sard language still spoken by the island’s older generations.

Most of the best trails criss-crossing Sardinia, into its mountains and along its rocky coastline, can be described as moderate. So while you can expect some rocky conditions underfoot, around five to six hours of walking per day and a few steeper ascents and descents, you certainly don’t need to be a walking wonder-woman (or man) to enjoy hiking here.

Walking holiday specialists offering guided small group tours will keep the pace relaxed, allowing for friendly conversation and plenty of rest stops. And with the views on offer you’ll want them. There’s no point in rushing around here; you’ll miss the scent of herbs which punctuate your route, glimpses of glorious vistas through groves of cherry and cork trees and the chance to hear the ancient myths and legends that permeate the paths you walk.

Preparation is key to enjoying your trip. Make sure you have experience of long day walks over rough terrain and add some of these – wearing your day-pack and hiking gear – into your regular exercise regime before you leave. Well-worn-in walking boots are less likely to give you holiday blisters, too.

Hiking is the only way to reach Europe’s answer to the Grand Canyon, which tantalisingly only reveals its true scale in your last few steps towards it. Once inside, sheer walls of limestone soar 200m over your head; a great gash in the Supramonte Massif cut by the (now underground) Rio Flumineddu. Keep an eye out for mouflon (wild sheep) on the cliff tops and golden eagles circling above the canyon walls.

It is speculated that Tiscali’s prehistoric inhabitants built their village inside a giant limestone cave in Monte Corrasi to escape the attention of the Romans. They hid well; Tiscali was only rediscovered a century ago. Now, the challenging hike there is one of Sardinia’s best walks. Wild, rocky and poorly-signposted, it is best done with a guide – who will also be able to give you the lowdown on ancient, cave-dwelling life.

Sardinia’s summer heat soars in July and August, so you’ll be more comfortable travelling in May to June or September to October when temperatures hit the mid 20°Cs. You’ll find most hiking holidays have a hiatus during midsummer anyway – consider it the walking holiday equivalent of the siesta. This lets walkers avoid the peak summer holiday crowds, too.

In May you’ll be treated to glorious wildflowers in the mountains, and enough warmth to enjoy the beach after a long day of walking. In September and October, the holiday crowds have dispersed and the island is serene. The sea is at its warmest at this time, too, so if you enjoy a post-walk swim this is a lovely time to travel.