Inner Hebrides travel guide

Hundreds of puffins line the rocky shoreline on Lunga – the largest of the tiny Treshnish Isles to the west of Mull. The colourful clown-beaked birds aren’t worried about visitors either, says Julie Dubois Marshall from our Hebrides specialists St Hilda’s Sea Adventures: “They just come right up to you, all around your feet – it’s really special.” Take a cruise to Lunga and you won’t just meet puffins, you’ll also see dolphins, the odd minke whale and perhaps a golden eagle or two. You won’t, however, see many other humans.
Whenever I can’t get to sleep in the city… I will think of lying in bed on this holiday, gently rocking with the waves, and the gobsmacking brilliance of the stars.
– a guest on our Inner Hebrides cruise
There’s an edge-of-the-world style escapism and sense of wild freedom offered by Inner Hebrides holidays. That you’re just three hours on the train from Glasgow can come as a bit of a surprise – especially when you’re at anchor in a loch with just you, your shipmates and a blinding night sky. Keep reading our Inner Hebrides travel guide to discover more.

Inner Hebrides are…

made for small ship cruises, although it’s not the only way to explore. Walking tours take you into the heart of the huge landscapes – and Gaelic history.

Inner Hebrides aren’t…

actually that remote, even though they feel it. Hop on a train from Glasgow and you’ll be in Oban in just three hours.

How to get to the Inner Hebrides

You could drive from Glasgow airport, but if you travel to Oban, the gateway to the Inner Hebrides, by train then you’ll enjoy one of the most scenic railway journeys in the world – the West Highland Line. At just three hours from Glasgow, it’s an easy option and as far as responsible tourism goes, it’s our choice too.

The West Highland Line will also take you north, over Rannoch Moor, through Fort William and over the Glenfinnan Viaduct – of Harry Potter fame – to the port at Mallaig (an exquisite journey under steam) where ferries run to the Small Isles of Rum, Muck, Canna and Eigg.

Julie Dubois Marshall from our partner St Hilda Sea Adventures explains that they are trying to encourage guests to turn to the train: “We offer a £50 green voucher to our customers who choose to arrive by train. And it’s actually a lovely way to travel; the train journey is a holiday in itself. It’s very easy and very beautiful, taking you across the Highlands.”

Cruising in the Inner Hebrides

Small ship cruising isn’t the only way to visit the Inner Hebrides, but these eclectic smattering of islands are almost purpose-built for adventures by boat. Most cruises depart from Oban and follow a variety of itineraries – in part dictated by the somewhat unpredictable weather and tide – which celebrate the history, communities, wildlife and whisky of the region.
“My favourite cruise is our complete circumnavigation of Mull,” says Julie. “It’s just beautiful. And the wildlife is fantastic: you’ll see basking sharks, dolphins, porpoises, eagles, seals and even minke whales if you’re lucky.”
The small locally staffed boats mean that experts in all things Hebrides – from wildlife and walks to where to get the best cup of coffee – are there to offer a guiding hand. For Julie, sharing this innate local knowledge goes one step further.
“I was very keen for all our crew to do WiSe Scheme training, so they can speak to visitors about the marine environment and wildlife and discuss issues with them. Education through talking to our guests is one of the most useful things we can do to protect the natural heritage of the Hebrides.”
Read our small ship cruising guide for more information on where and how to cruise in Scotland.

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Things to do in the Inner Hebrides…

Cruise lochs, pretty ports and mountain-backed sounds where the sound of silence rings loud and clear. Small ship cruises carrying a handful of passengers on beautifully restored fishing boats, ferries and tall ships offer an intimate adventure into the nooks and crannies that larger vessels can’t reach. Small ship cruises in the Hebrides are also surprisingly family-friendly, so bring the children. Think offline, off-screen old-school adventures here: kids catching fish for dinner, wildlife spotting and sandy toes exploring rockpools on the beach. Brush up on your Gaelic. These islands are home to some of Scotland’s last Gaelic-speaking communities – around 4,000 people speak the language here, but it has a fragile future. Seek out tales of Gaelic traditions and heritage, and play a role in keeping the language and culture a vital part of Inner Hebrides life. Eight distilleries and perhaps some of the most prestigious names in Scottish whisky – Laphroaig and Talisker, for instance – call the Inner Hebrides home, so this is a great chance to taste a wee dram. Islay is the whisky capital, with a distilling heritage it’d be rude not to explore.

Things not  to do in the Inner Hebrides…

Forget your binoculars. Wildlife abounds at every turn, whether it’s dolphins following your boat or white-tailed eagles soaring overhead. Puffins flock to Lunga, while thousands of migrating Arctic geese arrive on Islay each winter. The islands here were at the heart of the Highland Clearances – farming tenants were displaced from their ancestral lands in the early 1800s, leaving empty settlements and the ghosts of communities. Don’t ignore the past. Eat fish. At least, not only fish. While fishing is a huge part of Hebridean life – and some of the seafood you’ll taste is exceptional – there is a real issue with overfishing around the islands. Our responsible holiday partners make sure any fish served is sustainably sourced. Don’t just search for wildlife – search for stories as well. Legends are woven into the fabric of each Hebridean Island. Bonnie Prince Charlie escaped from over the sea to Skye after defeat at the Battle of Culloden, while in 563AD Columba arrived on now-sacred Iona from Ireland, bringing the Gospel to Scotland.
Written by Sarah Faith
Photo credits: [Page banner: Oliver Clarke] [Is isnt: Katia De Juan] [Whiskey: Adam Wilson]