Responsible wildlife tourism in Romania

Once famous for its dancing bears, Romania is on a slow but steady path to changing its attitude to wildlife conservation. There’s been a sea change since Romania joined the EU in 2007: bear sanctuaries instead of bear cages; wolf tracking instead of wolf hunting. Camera traps have revealed a diversity of wildlife previously unrealised, from European wildcats, wild boar and red deer to grey wolves, Eurasian lynx and bears. But where large carnivores and humans exist in the same space, there’s always room for conflict. Read on to find out about some of the most pressing responsible tourism issues for Romania’s wildlife – and how you can help.

Responsible bear watching

Romania joined the EU in 2007, putting captive animals under the protection of more stringent environmental laws. Up until then, caged bears were commonly used to tempt customers into bars, restaurants and petrol stations. Bears have been seen as a commodity for so long that it takes convincing arguments to change attitudes.

Sometimes, it seems a glacier-slow process. The 21st century narrative seems to characterise bears as the devil himself. Newspapers obsess over rare bear attacks. Meanwhile, politicians are keen to stoke an issue close to Romanian farmers’ hearts, saying that a bear hunting ban in 2016 resulted in a too-big-for-its-boots bear population that now needs culling. (It’s worth noting that bear hunting is traditionally the premise of the Romanian elite: politicians and businessmen.) Conservationists and civilian activists say that bear population stats – usually provided by hunters – are unreliable, and that habitat loss and irresponsible waste disposal are causing increased human-bear conflict.

Simona Munteanu, from our wildlife holiday specialists Absolute Carpathian, says: “Some of these conflicts are caused by bears losing their fear of people, entering their households and creating damage to their properties. This is increasing tensions, and there are more and more people taking things into their own hands. Using poison to get rid of the bears creates problems which, of course, harm much more than just the problematic bear.”

Romania has had so many human crises in recent history – from dictatorial Communist rule to a decades-long orphanage crisis – that it’s seen as a privilege to have the funds or time to prioritise wildlife conservation. There has been a feeling that there are bigger fish to fry.

But attitudes are changing, slowly. Libearty bear sanctuary was created in 2006 by journalist Christina Lapis. With around 30 hectares of oak and hazel forests, plus pools and foothills, this is the retirement home for over 100 rescued bears that can’t be returned to the wild.

Habitat loss

Romania’s economy grew by 7 percent in 2017 (compare that to the UK’s 1.7 percent and the USA’s 2.3 percent). A rapid growth of cities and infrastructure followed. Forest clearing has spread since 2005 and old growth forests are disappearing. New ski resorts are popping up in areas precariously close to fragile UNESCO sites.

Wildlife corridors are the key to preserving wildlife in Romania. They need to be established and preserved. The Zarand Landscape Corridor, for instance, is celebrated for its biodiversity – but it’s also threatened by large-scale development, loss of traditional agriculture, and intensified forestry practices like logging and commercial plantations. Wildlife bridges are a solid solution, but have yet to been put into practice.

Foundation Conservation Carpathia is the largest private conservation project in Europe, designed to fight against illegal logging. It’s gradually buying forest and hunting rights to protect a wilderness in the southern Carpathians the size of Yellowstone – big enough to allow natural movement for predators with huge territorial ranges.

Romania is one of the few European countries left where mass tourism hasn’t yet sunk its claws in. This is a great thing for you. You can choose a holiday that takes you for tea with monks at a hermitage. You’ll see villagers in the mountains who are keen to share their way of life – and give you a lift in their horse-drawn cart.

Always keep in mind that although rapidly growing, Romania still has a developing economy. Tourism helps lift people out of poverty, especially in rural communities. Wildlife holidays illustrate that there is economic worth in protecting forests and the animals in them. After all, top-of-the-food-chain predators like bears, wolves and lynx live in the same space as shepherds and farmers. You’re funding an understanding for the need to facilitate peaceful coexistence.