Things to see & do in Sabah, Borneo

To get your head around Sabah you have to think macro and micro. This Malaysian state on the northern end of Borneo is the gateway for most tourists visiting the island. An island that is the third largest in the world, by the way. So, that is one big gateway, and although Sabah is only the size of Ireland, its importance on the world map of wildlife and rainforest conservation is immeasurable.

Sabah is home to the Bornean orangutan, the largest tree climbing mammal in the world, which is critically endangered, mainly due to the destruction of its habit. And that is the macro mama of them all – deforestation of Sabah’s rainforests for timber and palm oil production.

Zooming into the micro level, grassroots ecotourism, community tourism and wildlife tourism are all making a difference. Because in a stunning state like Sabah, with a wealthy history that has depended on gas and oil exploitation, the economy has gone from being one of the richest states in Malaysia to the poorest. Responsible tourism is, thankfully, bringing the country’s natural riches to the foreground, and communities who once exploited the natural resources in order to survive are now realising that riches can come from nurture, not annihilation.

In 2017, Sir David Attenborough appealed to the Sabahan authorities to stop plans to build a bridge across the 560km-long Kinabatangan River, as it would further endanger the region’s endemic and rare wildlife, particularly a corridor followed by the endangered pygmy elephant. Given that this is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Sabah for full on immersion in rainforest, it's a relief that his and other activists’ voices were heard. To make the most of Kinabatangan’s extraordinary nature, take a boat trip along the river and through the mangrove swamps, or go on a guided hike through what Attenborough describes as “one of the most unique and biodiverse places on this planet”.

From the summit, you will have stunning views of the protected landscapes of Kinabalu National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site below, where flora includes not only 500 orchid species but also the Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower. And there’s plenty of stunning birdlife. A top place to go after trekking is Poring Hot Springs, to relax those climbing muscles.

Head to Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, just minutes from the state’s capital city of Kota Kinabalu, where three reef-rimmed islands are home to idyllic beaches where you can snorkel, kayak or seek the islands’ resident bearded pigs, monitor lizards, pangolins and macaques. Culturally it is also wonderful, with villagers living in traditional stilt houses interconnected by wooden walkways.

It is hard to comprehend that there are 32 ethnic groups in this little state, speaking over 80 languages. The rice-farming and rice spirit-honouring Kadazan-Dusun is the largest group, followed by the seafaring Bajau. These “sea gypsies” are famous for their stilt houses in the shallows, and rarely venture onto land. Apart from visiting markets or going to cultural events during your holiday, you can also choose a homestay. The MESCOT community along the Kinabatangan River has a wonderful set up for this; guests can stay with local families in a Rungus longhouse and learn all about local cuisine and traditional practices such as tea picking.