Things to see & do in Sabah, Borneo

Zooming into the micro level, grassroots ecotourism, community tourism and wildlife tourism are all making a difference. Because in a stunning state like Sabah, with a wealthy history that has depended on gas and oil exploitation, the economy has gone from being one of the richest states in Malaysia to the poorest. Responsible tourism is, thankfully, bringing the country’s natural riches to the foreground, and communities who once exploited the natural resources in order to survive are now realising that riches can come from nurture, not annihilation.

As recently as March 2017, Sir David Attenborough appealed to the Sabahan authorities to stop plans to build a bridge across the 560km-long Kinabatangan River, as it would further endanger the region’s endemic and rare wildlife. In particular a corridor followed by the endangered pygmy elephant. Given that this is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Sabah for full on immersion in rainforest, let’s hope his and other activists’ voices are heard. To make the most of Kinabatangan’s extraordinary nature, take a boat trip along the river and through the mangrove swamps, or go on a guided hike through what Attenborough describes as “one of the most unique and biodiverse places on this planet.”

Sabah’s summit of all summits is Mount Kinabalu which, for mountain climbers and serious trekkers, is an official four-thousander, peaking at 4,101m. The good news is that you don’t need climbing skills and expertise to summit, but you will need determination and fitness to trek through the tropical, montane and cloud forest trails, to be rewarded with sub-alpine vegetation at the top. Most hikes take you to a mountain hut en route, so that you can complete the last 8.5km in the middle of the night and take in all of Sabah from the summit at sunrise. It is also home to Asia’s first Via Ferrata or ‘iron road’ which takes you to 3,200m up the mountain with the help of metal cable systems.

Given that this small state has coastline on three different seas, the South China Sea in the west, Sulu Sea in the northeast and Celebes Sea in the southeast, there are some spectacular beaches, islands and all round marine marvels. Most of the coastline is covered with mangrove and nipah palm forests which lead down to blissful beaches and seaside hideaways.

Further south, Pulau Tiga National Park is a jungle-covered island with everything from mineral mud pools, thanks to its volcanic origins having erupted just over a century ago, to proboscis monkeys. The north coast is favoured by hawksbill and green turtles, which lay eggs on nearby deserted islands such as Lankayan. Turtle poaching remains an issue, which is why Turtle Islands National Park in and around Selingan Island was set up to protect them. However, it does get packed with visitors, and you have to book well in advance to get an overnight visit. Do look into other smaller islands along this ‘Sea Turtle Corridor’ with marine marvels such as whale sharks and yellow tail barracudas. And bring your snorkel.

Photo credits: [Top box: Mike Prince] [Kinabatangan - proboscis: shankar s.] [Sepilok canopy walk: CEphoto, Uwe Aranas] [Mt Kinabalu: HishMFaz] [Tunku Abdul Rahman NP: amrufm] [Sipadan - barracuda "tornado": Chen Wu] [Culture - sea gypsies: hazize san]