Sarawak, Borneo

There is a beautiful traditional craft in the Malaysian state of Sarawak, in Borneo, of weaving backpack-style baskets, called tamboks. They look stunning, they are durable, very sustainable and you can fit a lot in them. But they are also in danger of dying out, as the indigenous people who make them, collectively known as the Bidayuhs, are upstaged by less natural and more commercial products. No one wants to stop progress, of course, but in terms of Sarawak tourism, preserving its timeless qualities and natural ways is what it should be about. Because just like the beautiful baskets, this is a stunning state, with some of the most durable and dramatic landscapes, sustainable and community led tourism projects and, if you spend even a week here, you can pack a heck of a lot in.

It is extraordinary to think that, in just one state, there are 30 national parks. And herein lie Sarawak’s nature stories. Protecting its rainforests, mountains and coastline is of such importance here that some of the national parks aren’t even open to the public. The ones that are, however, will take you into other worlds. Such as Gunung Mulu which is famous for its geological glories, with limestone gorges, jagged peaks and giant cave systems, as well as tropical swamps and rainforest. The best way to explore it is on guided hiking trips, such as the two- to three-day Pinnacles Summit Trail, or the infamous Headhunters’ Trail. Yep, Sarawak has great tales to tell.

The biggest story in Sarawak, however, is that of the endangered orangutan, which is found only in Borneo and on the Indonesian island of Sumatra. Batang Ai National Park is home to Sarawak’s largest orangutan population, and it works in close partnership with the indigenous Iban people who have been stewards of these forests and their most revered creature for generations. Read more about Batang Ai here. You can also see Sarawak’s orangutans in its exemplary wildlife sanctuaries, created to protect orphaned or injured orangutans, the top ones being Semenggoh and Matang.

Sarawakian stories really are page turners when it comes to its wonderful array of people and culture. Half of Sarawak’s population is made up of Malays and Chinese, while indigenous tribes make up the other half. The state’s largest tribe is the Iban, and there are many opportunities to spend time with the Iban people and stay in their traditional long houses, or canoe the rivers with them, wildlife watching and discovering the rainforests and mangroves. The Iban, along with the Melanau people, comprise the Sea Dayaks who live along the river valleys. The Land Dayaks live up in the hills; most are Sarawakian Bidayuh and Orang Ulu, which include the nomadic Penans.

Then there are the Lun Bawang people who live in the Central Highlands and up on the northern borders in a collection of villages known as the Ba’kelalan. The Lun Bawang people are starting to create community tourism projects now, such as birding and hiking tours.

Mountain biking is also becoming more accessible in Sarawak, with cycling holidays that take you along ancient trails and back roads through the Penrissen Highlands. These holidays also usually offer the chance to swap saddle for paddle and go kayaking on the Sarawak River, for example, stopping for dips in waterfalls or explorations of limestone caves. They are often guided by the Bidayuh people who have been navigating these waters, jungles and wildlife-filled wonderlands in traditional canoes for centuries.