Community tourism in Sarawak

There are in fact nine cultural gems where the Lun Bawang live, together known as Ba’kelalan, and where they maintain their rich culture and heritage, from hill rice growing to bamboo instrument making. This collection of nine villages is in the Meligan Highlands, which rise to 910m above sea level and is where, over the years, the Lun Bawang people have used the land creatively and wisely to keep their communities in good health.

Over the years, producing rice in paddy fields and, unusually, on hillsides, has been central to the Lun Bawang’s livelihoods. Indeed, the rice harvest is the community’s most full-on festival, and takes place in Lawas, Sarawak’s northernmost town, during the first weekend of June. If you are in Sarawak at this time, head north, and revel with the Lun Bawang as bamboo instrument bands gather from all over the region, Lun Bawang food is everywhere and the all around ‘giving’ culture that is innate to the Lun Bawang people adds much sparkle to this Sarawak culture fest.

Pineapple growing is also a big feature at Long Semadoah, one of the nine villages, and highland salt production is also a thriving community endeavour. A more surprising aspect of Lun Bawang rural life that you will come across in Ba’kelalan is that of apple growing. Delightfully incongruous in a world of paddies and pickled fish, the Lun Bawang have successfully been growing apples here since the 1990s, with planting and harvesting adapted to the climate and terrain, including an artificial wintering when the leaves are removed.

For everyday tourists, however, this is not a summit to be tackled alone, and tourists must always have an expert guide to lead the way. There are also responsible tourism adventure companies that will guide you up the challenging route to the summit, whether you are religious or not, or on the annual pilgrimage or not. Because for many, of course, nature is the only sort of nirvana they seek. Seek and they will find, with treats such as the endangered nepenthes murudensis pitcher plant, a carnivorous species that is endemic to the montane habitat of this particular summit.

Responsible Travel would like to thank the Sarawak tourist board for their sponsorship of this guide