Komodo travel guide

Komodo dragons are just one of many highlights to be had on a Komodo holiday with bat caves, pink beaches and traditional local villages bound to conjure up a few more. Sailing to coral hotspots coveted by clownfish, parrotfish and turtles will send snorkellers into seventh heaven, although it’s often the experiences on the driest of dry savanna hillsides that will have adventurers, accompanied by park rangers, quivering in their sandals.
Set sail into the volcanic domain of dragons where adventures above and below the surface of Komodo National Park offer insight into a lesser visited area of Indonesia
Komodo holidays can be tailored to suit time constraints and interests, or run on a small group basis. Other than on Flores, accommodation will be a small boat with features ranging from en suite cabins to deck mattresses under the stars. Most travellers will combine a tour of the islands of Komodo National Park with other Indonesian islands, such as Bali or Lombok. And the west coast of the island of Flores, around Labuan Bajo, is fast becoming a holiday destination in its own right.

Komodo is…

about as close to Jurassic Park as you can get without Jeff Goldblum.

Komodo isn’t…

a zoo, there are no cages, and travellers will be wise to heed the instructions of knowledgeable park rangers.

Things to do...

Unless you’re five years old you aren’t going to be invited on a dragon hunt anytime soon; however, as Komodo National Park boasts a population of around 5,000 – split between Komodo, Rinca and Flores – tracking dragons with a knowledgeable local ranger, armed with a large, Y-shaped stick, is about as good as it’s going to get. Although some dragons appear no sooner than you’ve docked, others are a lot less sociable with ranger rules certainly worth adhering to. As there isn’t any tourist accommodation in Komodo National Park, other than west coast Flores, staying onboard a small boat is the best way to spend a night within the domain of dragons. There are literally hundreds of different boat types available from luxurious private yachts to more basic craft sleeping up to 16 passengers within cabins, bunks and mattresses on deck. A guide and group leader will also be onboard, as well as a chef to rustle up an array of tasty Indonesian treats. Depending on whether you’re visiting Komodo in the dry season or just after the rains you’ll find islands either dusty brown or lush green. Rugged volcanic slopes and savanna hillsides, on places like Padar Island, provide the best spot to watch the sun set before returning to the sea. Trekking in Komodo with a ranger in search of beaches, birds and dragons is the only way to explore, and trails are usually well marked and not too strenuous so hiking boots are handy, but not essential.

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Things not to do in Komodo...

Stay out of the water. Some of the snorkelling is sublime, especially off the northeast coast of Komodo Island, with boat trips and kayaks the best way to get closer to the patches of coral that fringe the islands and feed an abundance of sunfish, sea horses and rays. Pantai Merah (Pink Beach) and Manta Point on Komodo Island are a couple of great sites for marine life. It’s also possible to kayak around the islands of Komodo National Park as part of a tour that includes snorkelling and nights spent in safari tents.
Once you’ve snorkelled, hunted for dragons and enjoyed a couple of nights star gazing on deck there’s little else to do within Komodo National Park so don’t ignore the rest of Indonesia if you’ve got a few extra days to spare. Flights to Bali from Labuhan Bajo usually take just over an hour with tailor made tours also able to incorporate time spent in Sumatra and Java to ensure you get to experience the rest of Indonesia.
Although it’s the wildlife that often steals centre stage on a visit to Komodo, don’t forget about the local people who live and work, often as guides and park rangers, within the realm of dragons, volcanoes and tourists. Visits to the east of Flores allow you to learn more about Buginese culture in towns like Maumere and traditional villages like Sikka, renowned for its silk weaving, and the fishing village of Riung which lies within the protected perimeters of Pulau Tujuhbelas National Park.
Written by Chris Owen
Photo credits: [Page banner: Poppet Maulding] [Is/Isn't box: Gary Ullah] [Things to do: Paul Arps]