The cultural heritage of Oaxaca

As well as the Zapotec, the Mixtec people are also well represented in the region’s cultural heritage. Before the arrival of the Europeans in the late 1400s, Mixtec and Zapotec communities competed for natural resources and land. As the Aztec Empire spread out from Mexico Valley and into Oaxaca Valley, they demanded riches, resources and human sacrifices from the Mixtec and Zapotec people. Many indigenous communities were absorbed into the the Empire and in 1458 the Mixtec and Zapotec people were finally defeated.

Many Mexicans, and west coast Americans, can trace their ancestry to the Mixtecs, with goldsmiths, jewellers and artisan mosaic makers all notable professions that have been passed down through generations. Zapotec people, too, are still well represented in Oaxaca, with Zapotec language spoken in areas around the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, around Oaxaca. Zapotec and Mixtec art and cultural heritage can be found across this region, and over half of Oaxaca’s population have Zapotec or Mixtec heritage.

Complete with a statue of Benito Juárez, of course, this is Oaxaca’s main square (zócalo), and several significant Baroque buildings – including the Palacio de Gobierno, Oaxaca Cathedral and the Basilica of Our Lady of Solitude – are all within walking distance.

Oaxaca City’s original marketplace is, again, dedicated to the prodigal presidential son. Just south of the Plaza de la Constitución, the Mercado Benito Juárez reveals an authentic slice of Oaxaca life as everyday folk go about their business and shop for much more affordable items than you might find elsewhere. Handicrafts, meat, bread, vegetables, mescal, cactus juice and sandwich stalls sit side by side with traditional Mexican restaurants. This is the beating heart of the city and so much more than your average supermarket.

Traditional costume parades, walking bands, food (corn) stalls and a general celebration of pre-Columbian life helps to turn Oaxaca into a cultural epicentre for indigenous Mexicans every July. Despite the festival becoming slightly more commercial in recent years, its roots are deeply ingrained in Zapotec and Mixtec culture; the name ‘Guelaguetza’ stems from the Zapotec expression for reciprocal sharing within extended communities. The open air amphitheatre at the top of Cerro del Fortin is the focal point for celebrations.

This is the Mexican equivalent of curry – not the animal – with ‘mole’ paste blended with water and combined with different meats to form a rich gravy. Oaxaca is Mexico’s equivalent of Bradford with more mole varieties than anywhere else. From green to red, black to yellow, to a mole recipe that is literally known as the ‘stainer of tablecloths’, seek out a mole street stall or restaurant in the Mercado Benito Juárez for an authentic Oaxaca experience.

Oaxaca is easily accessible by air from Mexico City or overland from the capital via the city of Puebla. A tailor made tour, taking in Mexico's cultural heartlands and Caribbean coast, allows you to stay in Oaxaca as long as you wish, including excursions to Monte Albán. Independently owned accommodation, local guides and walking tours of Oaxaca’s markets provide real insight into everyday life in one of Mexico’s cultural capitals. Tailor made tours can depart at any time, but bear in mind that accommodation can get booked up early for Holy Week and Guelaguetza.

Small group holidays are an excellent way to experience Oaxaca in the company of a guide and other likeminded travellers. Travel overland from Mexico City via Puebla for two full days in Oaxaca before your group embarks on a first-class overnight sleeper bus to San Cristobal del las Casas and the Caribbean coast. Small group tours in Mexico are particularly good for solo travellers. Single supplements can give you the chance to have your own room, or you can share at no extra cost.

Small group food holidays in Mexico focus on a particularly important and enjoyable aspect of Oaxaca’s culture. They take you to the colourful markets and street stalls of Oaxaca as well as Mexico City’s Mercado San Juan and the seafood stalls in Mazunte, on the Pacific coast. This cultural taste of Mexico will be just as memorable as your first sweet and sour chilli chapuline.