Discover the true heart Tobago, beyond its beaches

If it's your first visit, you'll be instantly struck by the spirit of the Tobagonian people and their zeal for life, exhibited through a mishmash of art, music festivals dance and food, all of which you're warmly invited to experience. The islanders are old hands at throwing a decent party, and nowhere more so than at the famous Sunday School; a weekly community event held in Buccoo which welcomes locals and tourists alike. The evening begins in a relaxed fashion with music, food and craft stalls, but when the locals arrive the rum punch starts flowing and the party truly begins. You'll be introduced to steelpan, Calypso, chutney and soca - all popular types of music - and if you have the stamina, the party often continues on the beach until dawn where local dancers set the limbo pole impressively low, much to the admiration of onlookers. For the softer option, try the Saturday night BBQ at Cheno's Coffee Shop in Castara Village, where you can "lime" with the locals (one of the many endearing terms in Tobagonian patois, meaning to hang out or socialise).

Carnival itself, whilst less extravagant than that of Trinidad, provides a good insight into island folklore and is a colourful, joyous event. As the floats of percussionists and masquerade bands pass by, the rhythm will have you hip-swaying and belly-shaking in no time. Whilst Tobagonian music is lively and often humorous, there is also serious storytelling involved, as demonstrated at the annual Tobago Heritage Festival held in July and August; an important event if you're keen to connect more deeply with cultural traditions, history and community.

From Main Ridge it's a short leap into the dazzling waters around Speyside and Little Tobago. Whether you're a certified diver or an intrigued novice, you need nothing more than a snorkel to appreciate the spectacular underwater ecosystem created by the coral reef which fringes Tobago. Manta rays, barracudas, sea turtles and harmless black tipped reef sharks co-exist in these warm waters, along with all manner of tropical fish. Addiction alert: once you've glimpsed this underwater world, it can easily become an obsession. Jacques Cousteau wannabes should consider a trip out to the Buccoo Reef, a protected marine park just off the coast of Pigeon Point and one of the most easily accessible reefs in the Caribbean. And what's more, Jacques Cousteau himself rated it as the third most spectacular reef in the world. Choose your dive school carefully, and ask questions about the fish and environment you will see, so next time you dive beneath the surface you'll have a better understanding of the marine paradise surrounding you.