One of the most sought-after places in the world for those hoping to see the elusive snow leopard in the wild has always been the mountainous Ladakh region, in India-administered Kashmir. In August 2019 however, a controversial act of parliament to make Ladakh a union territory resulted in a tense
security lockdown which has majorly disrupted travel to the region and continues at the time of writing (October 2019).
While hoping the situation in Kashmir is resolved soon and peacefully, we also note that snow leopard tracking in Central Asia, specifically the Ala Too and Pamir mountain ranges of
Kyrgyzstan and
Tajikistan, makes for a superb alternative. The region is less well-known perhaps and still with its own accessibility challenges, but it also boasts healthy populations of these mysterious and fascinating big cats, and responsible operators are developing superb itineraries that combine highly skilled tracking with vital conservation efforts and a hint of unexpected luxury.
There are thought to be between 250 and 300 snow leopards in Tajikistan, and up to around 400 in Kyrgyzstan. Usually keeping to higher altitudes where it would be next-to-impossible to find them, in the winter months they are forced to come lower in search of prey, and this is where expert trackers come in. The best way to locate a predator is often to simply base yourself where its prey is, so you’ll follow Asiatic ibex, Tajik markhor (goats with distinctive corkscrew-shaped horns), Marco Polo sheep and other key prey species for the snow leopards, lynxes and Eurasian wolves too, in these rarely explored mountains. Other wildlife that you may well encounter includes wild boar, Bukhara urial, as well as vultures (bearded and griffon) and golden eagles. As you’ll be travelling mainly on foot, the animals will hopefully remain undisturbed by your presence enabling you to witness enthralling natural behaviours. Essentially, this destination is a dream for wildlife photographers, especially those with patience and luck on their side.