How to choose a tiger safari

In India, the best time to see tigers also coincides with the hottest weather. April, May and June are a great time to see them, as water sources dry up and vegetation dies back, but expect temperatures above 40°C. Unless you’re obsessed only with seeing tigers, it makes more sense to travel between October and February. November to January is cool and the tigers are active, but there’s plenty of water around after the monsoon, so animals are dispersed and less likely to be out in the open. February to March is peak time, with climbing but still comfy temperatures and sparser vegetation, but popular parks like Bandhavgarh and Ranthambore can feel very busy now. February and October are great times to see tigers in Nepal, while tiger watching in Bhutan and Siberia – a more exclusive option with a price to match – can take place at any time of year.

If you’re seeking out tigers in remote places such as Siberia and Bhutan, you’ll be joining a tailor made trip. In Nepal, and especially India, there is a good choice of both tailor made and small group holidays. Joining a small group means set departure dates, a fixed itinerary and usually travelling with around 12 people in total. It can work out cheaper than a tailor made holiday. On a tailor made trip, you’ll have more choice over dates of travel and the standard of accommodation, with some really luxurious options available. You’ll also have the option to extend the trip to take in other highlights, such as Agra and the Taj Mahal. There may be other perks, too, such as a private driver and an air conditioned car to transport you between reserves. Be aware, though, that not all tailor made tours will also offer exclusive jeep safaris; you may still be sharing the game drive vehicle with other members of the public.

Good guides are really integral to a positive tiger safari. A ‘bad’ guide may simply drive around the park pausing now and then with no real logic and without any information about where tigers were last sighted. Occasionally he might simply stop for a while, suggesting that a tiger is in the trees some way off and waiting for it to emerge, handily also saving on petrol.

Tigers are terribly endangered and their conservation is vital, sensitive work. Seeing them in the wild is a huge privilege and one that comes with responsibilities, so check that the tour operator you travel with is following good practice and ask how they conduct game drives.

By booking a tiger safari and paying park entry fees, you are putting money back into conservation work and the local community, but how much depends on the tour you choose. One recent study estimated that just six of India’s reserves provide economic benefits worth £851 million a year. That’s a huge figure, but often only a tiny percentage of that money makes it way back directly to the park, with the rest lost to regional or central government funds. [1]

“By seeing a tiger and spending money you are making a big difference. If you lose the tourists you lose the tigers, because your money is a meal ticket for local people. The animals are worth more alive than dead to local people, without a doubt, because all the ancillary benefits they bring. I have driven through parks that have had all their tigers poached. The hotels are empty and the local people don’t have work. The people who live in some of these tiny villages on the borders of the parks have an inextricable link with their striped neighbours. So, tiger tourism is vital.”

There is huge demand for tiger safaris, so it’s essential to book well in advance. Using a specialist tour operator is the easiest way, but you’ll still need to book at least six months before travelling. In India, due to new regulations in national parks, booking game drives for groups has become increasingly complex. As a result, the number of jeeps that can now enter national parks has been reduced, and all game drives need to be booked and paid for much further in advance. In addition, tour operators have to provide a list of client names and passport details at the time of booking each game drive and once they are booked, they are non refundable and name changes are not permitted.

“Money isn’t always used properly. You need to make it a meal ticket for local people, otherwise they will poach the tigers, why shouldn’t they? Tigers will survive – I fear for them – only in a few selected areas. Chinese demand for tiger pelts, bones, penis just isn’t going away. There’s a burgeoning middle class who wants this stuff and can buy it on the internet; not even the dark web, just up there on the internet. It means it’s expensive to see one in the wild.”