Revolutionary Trail

The revolution was prompted by the 1952 military coup that installed Fulgencio Batista as president. Fidel Castro was a young lawyer whose political aims were thwarted by the coup, and on 26 July 1953 he led a group of rebels in an attack on the Moncada Barracks. This first attack was a failure and many of the participants were jailed. Castro, a man rarely lost for words, gave a four-hour speech at his trial, declaring that “history will absolve me”. After his release, he headed to Mexico, where he began recruiting for his revolutionary group, named Movimiento 26 Julio after the Moncada assault. This was where Fidel first encountered a young Argentine doctor called Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara.

In 1956, a group of 82 revolutionaries led by Castro, his brother Raul, Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos, sailed to Cuba on the Granma. On landing, almost all of them were killed by Batista’s forces but a handful of survivors made it to the harsh mountainous landscape of the Sierra Maestra, where they set up a base of operations.

From their Comandancia de la Plata, the rebels launched waves of attacks on government forces, in conjunction with urban strikes and armed uprisings led by Castro’s ally, Frank País. Rebel Radio broadcasts spread the message of revolution across Cuba, increasing support and morale to counter increased pressure from Batista’s forces, bolstered by American arms, planes and money. Eventually a series of victories, including the Battle of Santa Clara orchestrated by Che, led to the revolutionaries sweeping into Havana on New Year’s Day 1959. Batista fled the country, and a new chapter in Cuban history began.

In the following years, industry was nationalised, land reforms were implemented, universal healthcare provided for all citizens, and a programme began to eradicate illiteracy. Of course, not all Cubans embraced the Communist takeover and many escaped a wave of imprisonment and executions of those seen as being against the revolution.

Today, visitors to Cuba will still see jingoistic propaganda singing the praises of the revolution everywhere, but enthusiasm is definitely starting to fade.

Kath and her team at Caledonia Worldwide have deep connections with Latin America, especially Cuba, where they organise specialist holidays for travellers interested in music, dance, history and walking. “For me, what makes Cuba so special is the people. They’re so resilient, upbeat, welcoming and resourceful. It’s the only country where our clients always want to go back straightaway.”

And when visiting Cuba, you’ll normally be accommodated in casas particulares. There’s no better way to get to know Cuban people and their culture. “We use casas particulares most of the time for our guests,” says Kath. “You’re staying in someone’s home, but they’re fully licensed with strict hygiene regulations. Most of our home stays have great cooks; people are often really surprised. Our hosts have adapted to European appetites and away from stodgy deep-fried cuisine.

“And you’ll be fed so well. Cuban cuisine is wrongly done down. It’s seasonal, organic and local and it’s forced to be imaginative – the only complaint we get about the food is that there’s too much of it! I’d recommend the seafood, prawns with garlic, and the pork’s really good too.”

Staying in casas particulares also provides valuable income to families across Cuba, which has been impoverished by decades of economic sanctions.

“An unmissable spot,” Kath insists. “All Cubans know the significance of Santa Clara. It’s where Che and his division struck a big blow against the army, blowing up an armoured train.” This was the scene of the revolution’s final big engagement. There is a huge statue to Che here, and you can see various exhibits inside the remains of the train carriages. After Guevara was tracked down and killed by the CIA while fomenting revolution in Bolivia, he was interred in a memorial at the Plaza de la Revolución in Santa Clara.

Once the Presidential Palace, the Museum of the Revolution in Havana traces the story of the revolution, and what life was like beforehand. There are many interesting exhibits, from bloodstained uniforms to Che’s black beret, and even the Granma on which the rebels sailed to Cuba.

In the south-west of Cuba, 200km from Havana, the Bay of Pigs is a popular diving location. It’s best-known for a failed counter-invasion by US-backed commandos. Aggrieved at the loss of significant economic interests, and worried about Castro’s deepening links with Soviet Union, the USA arranged for 1,400 troops to invade from Nicaragua in 1961. Castro himself led the forces that repelled the attack.

The Cuban Revolution was a pivotal moment in the 20th century – a story of sacrifice, courage, camaraderie and gigantic cigars that many Cubans, especially the older generation, still revere. The impact of the revolution continues to resonate with Cuban exiles and their families in Miami as well, and in the way that Cuba and the USA view each other with deep suspicion.

But exploring the revolution with clear eyes is important. There may have been plenty of heroics in this struggle, yet there are no clear-cut heroes. Castro and Guevara both had a lot of blood on their hands. It’s a thrilling and momentous adventure though, and knowing the full story of the Cuban Revolution is vital for anyone wanting to understand Cuba today.