Angkor Wat

Firsly, the size of the Angkor complex can’t be underestimated; it’s huge and encompasses an area roughly the same size as Vienna. Tours can last two or three days, or more, with coaches, bicycles, taxis and cyclos (three-wheeled bikes with passenger space on the back) ferrying tourists back and forth from Siem Reap to catch the sunrise, sunset or just to make the most of one of the world’s largest ancient temple sites. Monkeys, street kids, hawkers and orange-robed Buddhist monks line the roads but nothing really prepares you for what lies ahead so do some research, travel with a guide and find some space to truly appreciate Angkor, at a time and pace that suits you.

So if you’re tempted to book an Angkor Wat holiday, make sure to get in touch with Saul on the helpdesk, or anyone else at Responsible Travel for that matter, because nothing beats firsthand knowledge, especially when it comes to picking up the lingo.

Find out more about our top Angkor Wat highlights, with an interactive map of the site, in our 2-page guide to Angkor Wat.

The Hindu-Buddhist Khmer Empire, also known as the Angkor Empire, ruled Cambodia and large parts of Thailand, Vietnam and Laos, from the 9th to the 13th centuries. Their legacy was one of agriculture, primarily rice farming. The irrigation techniques which they developed, in the form of canal networks and hydraulic engineering, were pivotal to maintaining rice paddies, fruit orchards and fresh water reserves, filled with fish, to support local villagers and the vast armies protecting Khmer kings.

The decline of the Khmer Empire started at the end of the 13th century with royal in-fighting, religious intolerance and aggressive attacks from neighbouring nations, all leading to the inevitable. Although Angkor was still inhabited after the 15th century by Japanese settlers and Khmer villagers, the temples, canals and incredible architectural designs slowly started to crumble and succumb to the elements as the finger-like grip of surrounding creeper fig trees took hold.

Restoration work began in the 20th century, mainly clearing the build up of earth and the all-consuming jungle. However, anything of significant artistic worth or financial value was ransacked in the 1980s and early 1990s before Angkor came under the protection of UNESCO in 1992.

Today, the Angkor Archaeological Park encompasses Angkor Wat as well as the equally impressive ruined temple complexes of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm and Phnom Bakheng amongst others. These offer insight into the devotion of the Khmer Empire as well as an exciting adventure into a crumbling ancient world.

*Source: APSARA (Authority of the Protection & Management of Angkor and the Region of Siem Reap)

Angkor opens from 5am to 6pm and pre-dawn pickups can be arranged so that you can witness the sun rising over the temples. Many larger tour groups will head back directly after sunrise for breakfast so it’s a good idea to take some snacks and stick around before they return mid-morning. Another top tip is to do the traditional temple circuit of Bayon in the morning, Angkor Wat in the afternoon and Phnom Bakheng as the sun sets, in the opposite direction. And, although the peak season for visiting Angkor falls within the drier, cooler months of November to March it’s still worth braving the humidity between June and October because there are far fewer crowds. Also, it usually only rains in the afternoon so you can visit Angkor in the morning and head back to Siem Reap to enjoy a beer, book and brief tropical rainstorm from the shelter of an open-sided bar.

There are some excellent small group holidays and tailor made alternatives for travellers looking to experience Angkor Wat, with foodie adventures, wildlife expeditions, cultural heritage trips and photography holidays all combining with guided temple visits. Spending time in Phnom Penh and learning about the atrocities that befell Cambodia under Pol Pot is also highly recommended, as is getting off the beaten track and visiting the port town of Kampong Chhnang or taking a boat out to Rabbit Island, both of which are rarely seen by ‘in and out of Angkor’ tourists.

Although the adage “when you’ve seen one temple you’ve seen them all” might work for slightly jaded gap year students, it’s certainly not the case for wiser travellers. Giving yourself the time to visit temples with a guide is always going to put a really unique and interesting spin on things so don’t be fooled into thinking that you’re going just to tick a box; an Angkor experience should be far more than just that.

There may be few restrictions in place, despite the constant crumbling, but please do resist the urge to clamber all over the temple ruins, exciting as it may look.

Water is in scant supply around Angkor, mainly due to the increase in tourists, so make sure you book with a company that uses accommodation with a sustainable water use policy. Go easy on the long showers and report any leaky taps.

Finally, unfortunately, begging is big business around Angkor Wat and don’t be surprised if you’re mobbed by kids asking for cash and often using way too familiar Western phraseology, including advertising slogans, to entice you to part with your Cambodian Riel. Best advice is to learn how to say “no thank you” in Cambodian – min ei te arkoun haey – and ask your tour operator the best way to help get Cambodian kids off the street. Visit the Save the Children Cambodia website for more information on this issue.

Photo credits: [Top box: ken shirakawa] [Ellena Johnstone quote: Ross Huggett] [Aerial view of Angkor Archaeological Park: Jerry Luo] [Silhouette of temple: Nick Hewson] [How to get to Angkor Wat: Andrea Schaffer] [Mark Ord - avoiding crowds: Davidlohr Bueso] [Ellena Johnstone - Siem Reap night market: Alan Wat] [People on back of truck: ND Strupler]