So many people think about The Big Five when it comes to South Africa, missing the exciting and eclectic mix of the Big Nine. The nine provinces that is, each with a very different cultural heritage and their own stories and secrets to share. You really can have the holiday of a lifetime here without seeing one wild animal, although that is unlikely. And it would be a shame not to, of course. But the greater shame would be to just stick a bit of South African culture on the end of your itinerary. There is a vivaciousness and vibrancy about South Africans, but both vary in style according to the regional and tribal heritage. Don't try to understand them all on one trip; research two or three before you go and aim to delve as deeply as you can when you are there. In doing that, the other responsible tourism principles will fall into place. You may not touch every colour of their Rainbow Nation, but you will reap the golden memories at the end of it.

It is upsetting to contemplate that the animal you have just spotted, photographed and will remember forever, might then be hunted by humans. However, hunting is a big way of life in South Africa, and very often it plays an incredibly important part in conservation strategies. It is also likely that when you go back to your safari lodge, there will be zebra or springbok on the menu.

While we don't like the idea of hunting, at Responsible Travel we are not against it entirely. We do believe that well-managed hunting has its place, as it encourages the protection of large swathes of land and generates a huge income. To be truly sustainable, there must be strictly enforced quotas which have been recommended by independent experts, and not by the reserve owners or tour operators themselves. These quotas must ensure viable populations, and there must be considerable reinvestment in community projects and conservation.



Canned hunting, however, when animals are reared simply for the purpose of being hunted, is far from responsible and to be avoided at all costs. It does nothing for the environment - or for local people. There are several canned hunting reserves in South Africa, and tourists should also be wary of the fact that some of these are also in the market for conservation volunteers. Unwittingly, tourists turn up to count, care for and monitor animals, unaware that elsewhere on this massive, privately owned piece of land, the animals are then being hunted - for a fee of tens of thousands of pounds.

Township tourism is controversial. In slums, favelas and townships around the world, these kinds of tours have gained a reputation as "drive-by-shooting" trips. Sounds horrific, but actually, that is what they are - inviting tourists to drive through and shoot photos of some of the world's most deprived people, without giving anything in return.

However, South Africa's townships are home to many millions of its residents, including representatives from all its cultures, and provide an important way for visitors to the country to get a real insight into modern South Africa. More importantly, they are an opportunity for some of the country's poorest people to promote their heritage, generate an income for themselves and their families, and develop much-needed community initiatives. So we highly recommend including a township tour - or two - onto your itinerary, as long as you do it right.

What you can do:
There are many excellent providers, but to ensure you pick the right one, you need to ask some questions. Are the guides from the township? Is a portion of the fee being returned to the community, either to the individuals involved or to local projects? Where will you stop off on the way? And is there an opportunity to spend money? Local craft stalls, shebeens and food stands are all a great way to give back - ensuring your money goes directly to local entrepreneurs. Some of the local guides may have been deprived of education in the past, and so this exchange between host and guest has sometimes been pivotal for building self-development and self-belief.

For a real cultural exchange and learning experience, you need to take a walking or cycling tour. Soweto is the best-known township, but the cultural heritage of townships like Kathorus and Sharpeville are also of huge importance, although less well known. Uthando in Cape Town is another stunning example of people-led tourism products which lead to genuine, grassroots development projects.

There is also a strong township tourism movement in the KwaZulu-Natal region. Durban's Umlazi township is South Africa's second largest, has a population of more than 800,000 and is developing fast with investment in schools, infrastructure and housing. Throughout Zululand, there are many opportunities for visitors to stay in a traditional Zulu homestead or 'Umuzi'. From early 2014, the famous Hop on Hop Off red bus tours of Cape Town will include the township of Langa on their route, in an effort to entice those who wouldn't normally think outside the bus to jump off when they smell the wonderful street food sizzling, and hear the music calling. This is the result of an ongoing development of social enterprise initiatives within Langa based around jazz, heritage, arts, culture and food. Watch this happening space.

South Africa has been the first country in the world to embrace the principles of Fair Trade into its tourism industry. The holidays which have been certified as Fair Trade range from five star hotels in Cape Town to township tours in Port Elizabeth. A certification scheme, Fair Trade Tourism guarantees fair wages and working conditions, fair sourcing of produce and fair distribution of benefits - and, of course, a respect for human rights. Although Fair Trade Tourism may not be seen by eco purists as the most environmentally stringent of certification schemes, with the focus being more on people - you really can't extract the former from the latter.

People are integral to a fair and fine form of tourism here, not only in terms of creating a decent living wage but also because the only way you preserve the wildlife and habitat is by ensuring that the community is invested in their survival. Common sense and totally fair.

There are many other green certification schemes in South Africa as well, but the good news is that this is one of the few countries in the world to have a National Minimum Standard for Responsible Tourism (NMSRT) which they must all adhere to. What a different tourism industry we would have if other governments followed suit, with guidelines like this South African one: "Tourism can and should deliver income to poor households, particularly those situated in rural parts of our country". Fair enough.

• When booking a safari searching, look for companies that really do connect with communities. It is easy for them to greenwash, their stunning photos sweeping us into a frenzy of Out of Africa-ness. So read beneath the labels. If the focus is purely on the Big Five, with 'a bit of a cultural village visit' thrown in on the last day, the chances are this safari provider is putting profit way before people. The safest starting point is Fair Trade Tourism, as everything on this is excellent, because it focuses on the principles of Fair Trade.
• It should go without saying really that responsible resource management is the only way in South Africa. Ask your lodge if they are using renewables to provide the limited amount of energy that you need, and do be super careful about water usage.
• Conservancies are pieces of land which may either be privately owned or leased from communities, to be used for conservation purposes. Use of the land also benefits the communities which own them. Often with a focus on tourism as well, it is good to support the conservancies which are attached to the national parks, as the amount of protected land is being allowed to grow. Find out more at the National Association of Conservancies and Stewardship South Africa. Some conservancies are used for private hunting expeditions too.
• Don't overlook Kruger National Park. A lot of people think that the only way to safari is to do the eco luxe lodge thing and be driven around in a jeep by a guide. But in the Kruger National Park you can drive and guide yourself. Run by South Africa National Parks (San Parks), an organisation wholly dedicated to conservation, you can camp or stay in one of their bargain lodges. This is the park most affected by rhino poaching as it borders Mozambique where regulation is less stringent, so the more you support the park, the more money they have for putting anti-poaching rangers on the ground. That's what good safaris do, after all: put money back into conservation. So although it doesn't brand itself as the 'eco' destination, this park does a lot of great under the radar work.
• KwaZulu-Natal province has the highest density of rhino's in South Africa, and contains the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, world renowned for being the historical home of the Southern white rhino, following a successful programme in the 1950's to bring it from the brink of extinction. However poaching here, and across the rest of South Africa, of rhino's is still a major issue, with many killed daily. You can read more about programmes to help conserve rhino's, and donate, here.
• Treat yourself to the beautiful book Africa's Finest before you go, written by David Bristow and Colin Bell, with a list of veritable and verdant green safari lodges, according to their own "switched on to sustainability" school of thought. It really does make you think. Written by a team of environmentalists, this is a labour of landscape love where the right people are reaping the benefits.
• Be prepared for the fact that most middle to high income people in South Africa have domestic staff. It is not just an elitist thing, and it is still considered to be an important source of work for many people in South African society. There is a view here that people still need jobs, and this employment enables one generation to put their children through school, so that they can move on to a more financially positive future.
• It is important to swot up on the complexities of South Africa's history before you go - both recent and further back. As a responsible tourist, the only way you can really understand the present there is to understand the past. There is an interesting list of books here. It is not a case of 'don't mention the war' at all - people will chat about it, and even if they have differing opinions. Some Europeans struggle with levels of PC-ness and are afraid to call people white, black or coloured. But these terms are used freely and without prejudice here, and it will be hard for you to discuss the past without using local terminology. Of course, at times you will still meet with bitterness and closed thinking - like everywhere in the world - but generally there is a great sense of moving forward and pride in how far they have come.
• The Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg is a must-have experience to put things into the context here. It is not just a tourist museum, it is a place of peace and reconciliation that was created for the people of South Africa to learn, remember and heal. Or, as they say in their own words "The museum is a beacon of hope showing the world how South Africa is coming to terms with its oppressive past and working towards a future that all South Africans can call their own". Powerful stuff.
• Shark Cage Diving is big in South Africa, though many claim it is responsible for the increase in great white shark attacks. This is because very often the sharks are attracted artificially to the site by throwing chum (dead fish, offal, and blood) into the water. Attracting wild animals in this artificial way can never be responsible in our view, as it disrupts natural behaviour. There are some responsible diving companies, however, which do not use chum, so the shark viewing becomes no more harmful than any other kind of wildlife safari. So if putting yourself into a cage and surrounding yourself with sharks is your thing, always ask your operator if chum is used, to ensure your tour is not harming the wildlife or people. To find out more about this practice, read our article here.
• There is a movement to contemporise indigenous South African craft, design, theatre, music and visual art, the best examples of which were on show during Cape Town's year as World Design Capital 2014. Two shining examples, and not to be confused as they have the same names (meaning Place of Light): Maboneng in Cape Town is a new arts quarter being developed by local people in the largest township of Langa; and the Maboneng Precinct in Johannesburg. Previously considered a no go area for many, this is now pop-up paradise.
• One never likes to whine about wine, but it does also have, regrettably, some issues attached - workers' rights, for example. But you can of course buy ethical South African wine through Fair Trade. There are also black-owned vineyards which are not always top of the traditional tourist wine routes, but definitely worth seeking out, such as Seven Sisters and Mhudi.
• Although most people speak English, there are eleven official languages in South Africa. Some rural communities won't speak much English, so it really is worth learning a couple of words in Afrikaans, though in black communities you will get extra kudos and offer extra respect by offering a hello or thank you in the relevant tribal language. Languages are very specific to certain areas so, for example, in the Eastern and Western Cape you are in Xhosa land, while in Limpopo they speak Sepedi or Venda.
• There is an eclectic range of music in South Africa, from jazz to various traditional forms. Just a couple of examples: Soweto backpackers Lebo's is great for local music and the Cape Malay ghoema music, found in the Bo Kaap quarter of Cape Town, is something very special.
• Be prepared for a gender divide in South Africa - it can be a shock. Basically, and generalising of course, the guys do the braai or barbecue and the girls do the salads, to sum it up in a typical South African way. It is still all a bit stereotypical, but hey, change doesn't happen overnight.
• Volunteering holidays are big in South Africa. It is important to ensure that your volunteering holiday company adheres to some of the strict guidelines now being recognised as good practice within the industry. This way, you can check that the work you are doing is actually sustainable and that the needs and expectations of the host community are being well met on every level. And if you are looking for wildlife volunteering, make sure the reserve doesn't double up as a hunting ground. Yes, really. So, all in all, before you volunteer, read and ruminate on theseguidelines.
• If you are one of the many bird watchers flocking (sorry) to South Africa, become a member of the African Bird Club, which funds conservation projects and works very much hand in hand with local people.