Dubrovnik travel guide

Don’t be fooled into thinking that Dubrovnik starts and ends at Pile Gate because, as our Dubrovnik travel guide proves, there’s a king’s ransom of treasures in wait beyond the city walls. Rural river trails in the Konavle countryside; vineyards, oysters and beaches abound on the Pelješac Peninsula whilst, all at sea, the Elaphiti Islands, Lokrum and Mljet National Park, offer royal heritage, pine forests and hidden grottos, perfect for biking, hiking and kayaking.

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DUBROVNIK TRAVEL GUIDE

The sun’s glare reflects off white limestone walls and patchwork paving as you stroll down the pedestrianised Placa linking the gates of Pile and Ploce. This is Dubrovnik: famed for fortifications, Franciscan monasteries, Gothic-Renaissance palaces and hexadecagon-shaped fountains. Oh, and the walls. Can’t forget the walls. Ironically, the walls of Dubrovnik offer a glimpse at what else is out there. The pine forests and saltwater lakes of Mljet National Park; the flower-festooned villages, summer houses and secret coves of the Elaphiti Islands; the Benedictine abbey and botanical gardens of car-free Lokrum Island. Strain your gaze south and the rural trails of Konavle Valley lie beyond.

There’s more to Dubrovnik than walls so make the most of boats, bikes, kayaks and hiking boots as you release yourself from ramparts and explore without cruise ship crowds.

To the north, from Ston, the vineyards and oyster beds of the Pelješac Peninsula create a gastronomic delight for cyclists. The twinkling Adriatic is crying out for kayaking, snorkelling and wading in crystal clear shallows in search of sand-free sanctuary without crowds, and, sometimes, without clothes.

Find out more in our Dubrovnik travel guide.

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DUBROVNIK MAP & HIGHLIGHTS

Occupying the skinnier southern section of Dalmatia, Dubrovnik–Neretva County captures the islands and mainland coastal districts surrounding the city of Dubrovnik. Stretching southwards from Hvar Island and the seaside village of Drvenik to the borders with Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina, Dubrovnik–Neretva also includes the Pelješac Peninsula and the southernmost region of Konavle. The Elaphiti Islands, Korcula Island and Mljet National Park all feature within the county limits and there are numerous ferries, catamarans and water taxis operating out of Dubrovnik with seasonal timetables and prices to match: Oct to May is low season, June to Sept is high season.

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1. Dubrovnik
2. Elaphiti islands
3. Konavle countryside
4. Lokrum island
5. Mljet island
6. Peljesac peninsula

Dubrovnik

1. Dubrovnik

Pale limestone paves the way to 15th century fountains and steep side streets in Dubrovnik's Stari Grad (Old Town), providing early birds with a glimpse of life pre-tourism. The white stone stands in contrast to the russet red roof tiles with baroque, copper- domed, churches standing alongside convents and cloistered gardens to create a cornucopia of colour best viewed from Mount Srdj via cable car or hiking trail.

Dubrovnik

Elaphiti islands

2. Elaphiti islands

Ferries here are frequent so don't expect to keep this Adriatic archipelago to yourself. The three inhabited islands all tempt cyclists, walkers and bathers, although Lopud's sandy beach does tend to draw more crowds. Sipan boasts a rugged coastline, church ruins and an abundance of palm trees whereas Kolocep is renowned for ancient pines, citrus groves and fishing villages – Gornje Celo and Donje Celo.

Konavle countryside

3. Konavle countryside

Captured between the Adriatic and Mt Sniježnica, the rocky valleys and peaceful pastures of Konavle extend from Cavtat (15 mins from Dubrovnik) to Montenegro to invite travellers into rural lifestyles featuring watermills and waterfalls hidden by pine and cypress forests. Olives, figs, grapes and mulberries are grown in abundance with out-of-the-way villages, like Cilipi, initiating a peep into the past.

Konavle countryside

Lokrum island

4. Lokrum island

Right in front of Dubrovnik – seriously, you can't miss it, just a 15 minute ferry ride away – the tiny emerald isle of Lokrum is bypassed by most tourists looking to island hop and as such makes for an incredibly pleasant place to spend a day. Well worn tracks meander from botanical gardens to ancient fortifications, olive groves, sheltered swim spots and a cafe or two – great option if you’re stuck for time.

Mljet island

5. Mljet island

The northwest of Mljet Island has been a national park since the 60s and features a couple of vast, saltwater lakes, one of which has its own island and 12th century Benedictine monastery. Hikers and bikers will be in their absolute element with numerous ridges, gorges and pine-covered hillsides presenting ample stomping grounds prior to renting a kayak and paddling to the beaches and coves along the coast.

Mljet island

Peljesac peninsula

6. Peljesac peninsula

About an hour's drive along the coast from Dubrovnik you'll come to Ston (famed for its Great Wall of China- type walls) and the start of the Pelješac Peninsula. This 65km fertile frond is flanked on both sides by coastline and features some of the finest mussels, oysters and seafood hotspots in Croatia, as well as an abundance of vineyards - all within easy reach for cyclists looking to expand horizons, and Lycra.

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Things to do in the Dubrovnik Old Town

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Things to do on the Elaphiti Islands

Just as they were for the aristocrats of yore, the Elaphiti Islands are your great escape from the crowds of Dubrovnik, setting out hideaways for people who want to sail, hike, kayak and swim.

Why choose a small ship cruise to Dubrovnik?

The cruise scene in Croatia is blighted by the behemoths of the industry, but don’t think that means you can’t sail in – you just have to choose your cruise very carefully.

Things to do on the Dalmatian Coast

The Dalmatian Coast proves that there’s life beyond Dubrovnik – over 230km of it, in fact. Read our guide to find out why the Elaphiti Islands are just a taster.

How to avoid the crowds in Dubrovnik

How do you avoid the crowds in Dubrovnik? Can you? Should you travel to Dubrovnik at all? All fair questions. Read our guide to find out the answers.

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Beautiful Dubrovnik has become troubled by overtourism in recent years. We examine overtourism in Dubrovnik in depth and explain what you, the traveller, can do to avoid contributing to it.

Responsible tourism in Dubrovnik

Responsible tourism and Dubrovnik are two ideas that are getting further and further apart. It has the dubious honour of, alongside Venice, being one of the most over-visited cities in the world.

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Written by Chris Owen

Dubrovnik travel guide