Things to do in the Dubrovnik Old Town

Dubrovnik stretches out along the coast from Sveti Jakov beach in the south to the pine forests and spacious suburbs of Lapad to the north. But what most travellers mean when they refer to Dubrovnik is the walled Old Town. Its terracotta-topped houses, marble streets, burnished churches and secret synagogues squeeze neatly into a hook of land completely enclosed in stone walls.

First thing first: read our guide on how to avoid the crowds in Dubrovnik. Secondly: travel with a tour operator that’ll help you avoid the ugly side of tourism in Croatia. Because the crowd-crushed Old Town isn’t the Dubrovnik that Croatians want you to know. It’s not a Dubrovnik that they want to know, so don’t help contribute to overtourism if at all possible.

The beauty of the Old Town reveals itself in the low periods that are like a released breath: spring, autumn and winter; early morning and evening. When the mass of tourists retreats back to its cruise ships, residents emerge and travellers can see what made even the wealthy Venetian Republic hanker after Dubrovnik’s riches.

The 15th-century walls mark the boundary of the Old Town, built by the Republic of Dubrovnik to protect the riches of the city in a 2km-long embrace. Fortresses pinion each turn of the wall; ideal watchtowers for taking a breather and absorbing outstanding views over the street-striped Old Town and Lokrum island.

A great guide will avoid the busy Pile Gate entrance completely, and take you around to Ploce Gate. This way, you’ll always be a good kilometre ahead of any large groups coming in. There’s nothing fun about being pushed along the walls by a 60-person shore excursion. You should also consider walking the walls when the big cruise ships have left, around 8am or 5pm. The opening hours change with the seasons, with the walls often closing at 3pm in winter.

As the beloved patron saint of Dubrovnik, you’ll see statues of the venerable St Blaise peering down from every crevice, from church domes and facades to restaurant menus and souvenir shop shelves. He’s been keeping an eye on the city since 971, when legend has it that he appeared to a Dubrovnik priest, warning of a Venetian attack. His defence has been celebrated on that day – February 3rd, if you fancy taking part in the wintry processions – ever the since.

Don’t fancy a February trip to Dubrovnik? You could always pay your respects in St Blaise’s Church, where the marble altars and decorations are as baroque as they come. Or there’s always the Cathedral of the Assumption, which was rebuilt after a 17th-century earthquake. The treasury glitters with gold...and the grizzly relics (head, throat bone, hand and all) of St Blaise and friends.