Overtourism in Dubrovnik

The cheap flights that have saturated Europe in recent years are one cause of overtourism, as they make it easy and affordable to reach Dubrovnik for a short break. In fact, the average stay in Dubrovnik in 2017 was less than three days. Many visitors choose to stay in accommodation booked through Airbnb – another classic overtourism player – in a peer-to-peer transaction that is often not subject to any kind of planning, permits or taxes. Alternatively, visitors are staying in guesthouses and apartments created to meet tourist demand, in buildings that once provided vital accommodation for local people.

Cruise ships are another key cause of overtourism in Dubrovnik, disgorging thousands of tourists each day. In 2017, the city received 742,000 passengers on 538 ships^[2]. These visitors typically spend very little time or money here (they may not even fit in a Game of Thrones tour), yet ensure that Dubrovnik’s historic streets, monuments, cafes and shops are rammed with people, creating an unpleasant experience for residents and visitors alike. You can read an interview with novelist Louise Doughty about her experience of and thoughts on overtourism in Dubrovnik and the wider Croatian coast, after a summer holiday there in 2017.

The tourist influx is not the only issue; it’s the amount of time tourists stay that is significant, too. Cruise ship passengers drastically swell the population of Dubrovnik in insane spikes of just a few hours, pouring onto land after breakfast and returning to the ship at 3pm for their all-inclusive dinner. While in Dubrovnik, these visitors might have a beer or an ice cream, but that’s it. They contribute very little to the local economy but their presence means that those amenities that once catered for local people, or at least benefitted them financially, are gone – traditional cafes have become fast food outlets, and craft shops now sell cheap souvenir tat instead. In the context of a long cruise, Dubrovnik becomes just another stopping off point, and for every visitor delighted to be there, there’s another who might be indifferent. Overheard comments in the Old Town include: “Excuse me, what country are we in?” and “What do you mean, you don’t take Euros? The whole of Italy takes Euros.”

In Dubrovnik, as in any other overcrowded hotspot, overtourism also threatens to kill off the goose that laid the golden egg. If travellers only experience over-sold destinations where they have a poor experience and meet jaded local people, they might stop visiting altogether.

To avoid contributing to overtourism in Dubrovnik, travel smart and travel responsibly. Come outside the peak summer months of July and August if you can, and explore hotspots such as the Old Town at the start and end of the day, when cruise passengers aren’t present and the streets are quieter. Invest your time, money and consideration in Dubrovnik, too, by staying here for a few nights, eating and shopping locally, and taking time to chat with residents. Seek out the city’s museums, festivals and local restaurants for an authentic experience that benefits you, the traveller, but also local people. Venture beyond the overcrowded Old Town to the beaches of the Lapad peninsula, which can be easily reached by public bus, or hop on a ferry and explore the islands off the coast. In this way, you’ll spread your money further and swerve the crowds. You can also simply join a small group holiday, with a local guide who can steer you to Dubrovnik’s hidden corners, before travelling further into Croatia or along the coast.

Sources
^[1] The Telegraph
^[2] Travel Weekly