It may feel like India is insane with issues when it comes to tourism but, in fact, like everything in India, they vary per region. And, in most cases, the issues are driven by poverty, inequality and sometimes just pure and simple inefficiency. India is a constant dichotomy, with hi tech companies ruling the roost in Bangalore, yet power blackouts a common occurrence in rural India. They have slum tourism and palace crawls in Mumbai. So, you can’t make generalisations about India. The issues are many, multi-faceted and ever changing. But most of all, Indian people will talk about them. They enjoy debate, can take criticism, welcome a cross-cultural conflab and, as this is in general a spiritual, caring country, they strive for positive change.

The one danger of us highlighting poverty as an issue in India is that it adds to the tired, clichéd conclusion reached by many tourists that India is just full of beggars and thieves. Tricksters and touts. It isn’t. Nor is everyone poor. In 2013, the Indian government stated 21.9% of its population is below its official poverty limit which, with a population of 1.27 billion, is a lot of people. Too many people. However, since the 1950s, the Indian government has, with the help of food subsidies, improved agriculture and education, reduced absolute poverty levels by half, and greatly reduced illiteracy and malnutrition. Gujarat and Delhi are faring well, but Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh less well, with Odisha (aka Orissa) and rural Bihar among the world’s most poor. However, poverty is not going to feature centre stage for tourists anymore, even though it should do for politicians and economists. What is important to understand in India is that, very often, the negative impacts of tourism have been exacerbated because of a growing income divide. Tigers are still being poached because there is more money to be made by selling their body parts than selling safaris. Houseboats are still polluting the backwaters of Kerala because they are one of the biggest sources of income in the region. Elephant rides can feed a family for a week, even though the treatment of the animals is often unethical. Haggling and hassling is a quick fix compared with raising funds to create a legal tourism business and, the worst side of humanity, the sexual exploitation and abuse of children, a very dark side of tourism, grows not just because of the shocking demand but because young people are talked into being trafficked with a promise of a more affluent lifestyle. And businesses turn a blind eye as it pays well.

The alleviation of poverty through tourism will never be a fix all. But individuals can create change through tourism, sometimes by just making one small change of direction. Surprisingly, considering it is one of the biggest countries in the world, the tourist trail in India is still very predictable and heavily trodden. Stepping off it can have huge positive impact, even if just for half a day. Using local guides, supporting a wildlife sanctuary, staying in homestays, supporting vibrant new enterprises from literary festivals to backwater kayakers, visiting bazaars that aren’t in the guidebooks or cycling to a village and eating at a small family owned restaurant, all make a huge difference. Not only to people’s daily lives, but also in growing the areas which benefit from tourism, and thus enabling them to gain support and recognition from tourist boards. This is worth its weight in gold alone.



What you can do
As well as using responsible tourism companies, gaining their advice about donating to charities on the ground and appropriately when you are there, spread the word using social media. If you find a brilliant toddy bar, tell everyone and hashtag #India. If you see illegal acts, tell everyone and hashtag #India. If you are moved to tears by beauty, tell everyone and hashtag #India. And if you had fun and learned something new on a slum tour, tell everyone and hashtag #India. That’s the quickest way to erase the tired old clichés, and put positive word around. Because if ever there was a place to create change through crowd sourcing, India has to be it.

Seeing tigers in the wild is rare. But tigers are rare with just over 3000 in the wild, worldwide. India is home to half of these and, with poaching still a serious threat, it is vital to support conservation efforts through tourism. In the past it was even more difficult to spot the elusive tiger, but they have now become more used to jeeps and people, and are braving the open spaces, sometimes even with their cubs. The most usual way to see tigers is from a vehicle, either a jeep or a minibus although some parks are installing tree viewing platforms.

The best places for viewing are Bandhavgarh National Park, Corbett Tiger Reserve, Bandipur National Park, Kanha National Park, Periyar National Park and Pench Tiger Reserve. One other issue related to tiger watching is the use of elephants in national parks where tigers have their habitats. Although we do not endorse elephant trekking at Responsible Travel, as you will see from our ‘Elephants in tourism’ guide, we do recognise that, at Periyar, for example, the survival of the remaining tigers is simply too precarious to risk withdrawing the funding gained through elephant rides from the park; to do so would risk an instant increase in poaching and the demise of the species. Allowing elephant back safaris is far from an ideal situation, but we believe it is the “least bad” solution to a complex problem. Read more about the use of elephants in conservation here.

We highly recommend using the services of expert tour operators and guides to arrange a tiger safari as they know all the issues in their specific area. These should also be organisations that wholly engage with local communities, however, not just with national park authorities as the development of tiger tourism as an income source for local communities is vital.

While you are on a tiger safari, a few days at least is recommended, and the usual wildlife watching guidelines apply. Your guide should not take you too close and never tip guides more money to take you closer towards a tiger. And, and of course animals should not be fed, touched or teased in any way. Silence is the golden.



What you can do
Make sure you use a tiger safari company with a strong knowledge not only of responsible tourism but also of conservation issues within the area of India that you are hoping to visit. A very useful website is the Travel Operators for Tigers (TOFT), which not only leads strong campaigns for responsible tiger tourism in India, but has also developed rating system of rating that measures the ‘footprint’ of individual lodges and hotels in India’s wilderness regions, called the PUG Rating. You can also donate to reputable tiger conservation charities such as the WWF, Born Free and many others listed on TOFT website.

• The sexual exploitation of children for prostitution is a reality in India and, although a shock to many this is, horrifically, a growth area in tourism. We have rightly been advised by campaigning organisations not to refer to these young people as child prostitutes or sex workers. They are children who are victims of child rape. And the reality is that children are trafficked into India for this purpose from Bangladesh and Nepal, and then through India to Pakistan and the Middle East. It is thought that between 5,000 and 7,000 Nepalese girls are trafficked into India for sexual exploitation every year. Always report any suspect activities with regards to children to local authorities and, in particular, the tourism locations which are allowing it to happen. The Code (short for “The Code of Conduct for the Protection of Children from Sexual Exploitation in Travel and Tourism”) is an excellent point of contact for this purpose.
• Elephant trekking, riding, washing and playing are not on our list of top things to do in India, as you can see from our ‘Elephants in tourism’ guide, although we make some exceptions when it comes to creating conservation income in national parks that helps protect endangered tigers. However, the mistreatment of these wild animals to titillate tourists is not something we endorse in any way. Elephant polo, popular in Rajasthan, wouldn’t be one of our favourites either, with elephants being trained at a young age using methods that compromise their welfare, such as shackling, the use of a bull hook and hours of unnatural tricks.
• Although not featured on Responsible Travel, there are orphanages in India which invite ‘voluntourists’, something we discourage as, in some cases, orphanages can become businesses rather than places of care. Untrained volunteers, however well-meaning, should not be allowed to work with vulnerable children, just as they would not in their home countries. And a high turnover of volunteers means that children become separated from people they have become attached to again and again. For this reason, we removed a large number of orphanage volunteer trips from our site in 2013. Read more about our orphanage campaign here .
• Being aware of cultural sensitivity is very important in India, when it comes to dress sense. For women, in particular, showing bare legs, shoulders and wearing low cut tops are a faux pas. And, in fact, if you cover yourself with light cotton, it is actually cooler as the sun isn’t hitting your skin, and also culturally acceptable. Women should also have a shawl to cover their head in a mosque. Also, being intimate with a partner in public is not welcomed either.
• In Delhi, in particular, there are various ‘tourist information’ offices which look like government run facilities, but in fact they are privately run. Which isn’t really dodgy, just deceptive, and you will end up paying high prices for excursions and accommodation you source there.
• In Goa, beware of bag snatchers on motorbikes around the busy coastal resorts and, in particular, on the roads to and from the beaches in the in the Candolim-Calangute areas.
• Marijuana and other ‘recreational’ drugs are widely available in India although totally illegal. If caught in possession, the punishment can be as severe as that given to Class A drug holders.
• Alcohol is forbidden in Gujarat. Foreign tourists are partly exempted from this restriction so you need to check with your hotel or accommodation as to the rules in their establishment. Drinking in public is strictly prohibited.
• Smoking is not allowed in public places in Kerala. Sometimes police don’t stop foreigners doing it as they don’t want to upset tourists, but actually it is not allowed.
• Tipping is controversial. On one hand we recommend you don’t tip too much, as the standard of living is very different, and so just because you pay a tiny amount for a meal, doesn’t mean you have to give five times that amount as a tip. It creates a false economy. On the other, some people such as local guides depend on tips. At hotels there is a service charge but drivers and guides do depend on tips.
• Giving pens to children seems to drive a lot of our suppliers mad, and although it is done with good intentions, it has got a little out of hand. If you really want to give to charity, ask your tour operator for a good local charity to support. Most responsible tourism companies will have an associated with a local charity which is sustainable and transparent.

Photo credits: [Children in the slums: Michal Huniewicz] [Tiger mania: Brian Gratwicke]