Resorts have famously ravaged many parts of southern Lanzarote, but until you have seen the small villages of the north or west, you won’t believe just how remote and utterly wild much of this island can be. It’s a bit like the barren yet beautiful volcanic terrain that houses and nurtures grapevines here, producing fine wine and bottles full of bubbly joy. The same goes for rural accommodation, with traditional stone buildings emerging from the volcanic plains, or yurts that mirror the wild, volcanic backdrop with their elegant curves. Hilltop villages and coastal hamlets. Tiny coves and volcanic lagoons. With tiny bars where they won’t look at you strangely if you ask for a glass of a wine made from Malvasía Volcánica, the local grape, along with some Canarian papas arrugadas potatoes served with the traditional mojo spicy sauce. In its rural way, it is totally resplendent.
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Finca De Arrieta

This eco hideaway is almost concealed from view from the beach of fishing village, Arrieta, just a few minutes’ walk away, on Lanzarote’s remote north coast. Just a few elegant palm trees mark the spot of the finca, or farm, where Michelle and Tila Braddock have mastered a collection of eco designs to create off grid living at its most glamorous. They are of UK origins but have lived on the island for over 20 years.
The finca boasts eight yurts, some eco chic, others full on luxury, and a handful of cleverly restored stone and wooden buildings, including a converted water tower, all powered by solar panels and wind turbines. The small community revolves around a communal, solar heated pool area in the restored farm reservoir, and their honesty shop bursts with local produce, from watermelons and bread to local wine. They offer hybrid car rentals, although the finca is only four minutes’ walk from Arrieta Beach, so you can stroll along the sand to the village to top up on supplies. A green gem, this place has a reassuringly family run feel to it, with visitors going back again and again for their finca fix.

Fisherman’s waterfront cottage, Arrieta

This fisherman’s cottage in the north coast village of Arrieta is the real thing, nestled between the slipway where local fishermen still moor their colourfully painted wooden boats and a tiny tapas bar with the best local wine to sip and watch the sunset. You can almost put your fishing line into the water and catch your breakfast. The owners have cleverly put one there for that purpose.
Beautifully restored, and on two floors so that you have nothing but views of the sea as you slumber, this is the most romantic, rustic place to stay. Even the bath has a sea view. You are close enough to skinny dip at sunrise and run back in before anyone sees you – unless the fishermen are out already, of course. From a responsible tourism aspect, the house has been refurbished using traditional techniques and local building materials and it also has solar panels for electricity. You don’t need a car for this accommodation, as you can opt for an airport transfer and then buy everything you need to eat or drink in the village.

Luxury villa, Tabayesco village

Lanzarote is a wonderful place to have a family reunion, or get together with a few friends to enjoy the rural treats on offer. This stunning villa, a carefully and stylishly restored stone house, sleeps 12, and is named after the volcanoes that oversee it, although the aspect taking centre stage here is the view over the sea. The village of Arrieta is just 1.5km away and, although the price of this villa includes the use of a seven-seater Prius Toyota Hybrid car, walking, jogging or cycling there is not only easy, but very lovely.
Cyclists will love the location of this villa with Lanzarote rapidly becoming one of Europe’s most popular training grounds for triathletes. Tabayesco is wonderfully located for quick access to the inland hills and hairpins. This villa has a solar heated swimming pool, and the uninterrupted views of the sun rising over the sea in the morning are worth setting your alarm for – especially given that the master bedroom has ceiling to floor windows.
For triathletes in training, the best swim you can get is out to the pier, climb out, jump back in with the local kids, and swim back to shore. A few of those and you will be ready for your Canarian barraquito coffee overlooking the waves.

Luxury farmhouse, Arietta

This wonderful stone house is just a few minutes’ walk from the north coast Arrieta Beach, and is also a fine example of sustainable building, totally off grid. It is part of the fabulous finca mentioned above, and yet it feels as if it is on its own little island almost with a light, open plan feel to it and wonderful sea views.
The rural qualities of this farmhouse are accentuated by its lovely outdoor space, with small solar heated swimming pool (private), day beds and raised dining areas, meaning you can see over the sea for breakfast sunrise and the volcanoes for cocktails at sunset. Because the farmhouse is attached to the larger farmhouse, you can make the most of facilities there too, including another pool, shop stocking local produce, delivery of a local farmers’ vegetable box and excursions to nearby island of La Graciosa or to Haría market.
Photo credits: [Top box: Joan Campderrós-i-Canas] [Helpdesk: Tatyana Vyc] [Finca De Arrieta, Fisherman's waterfront cottage & Luxury villa: Lanzarote Retreats] [Sunset and volcanoes: daniel.stark]
Written by Catherine Mack
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Photo credits: [Page banner: Iñaki Queralt]