Overtourism in Japan

Breaches of etiquette

Modern Japanese society still puts great emphasis on ancient forms of etiquette, but unfortunately not all tourists are aware that they may be breaching these unwritten rules. One particularly notable example is in Gion, Kyoto’s geisha district. Geishas and maikos (apprentice geishas) are highly skilled hostesses in great demand at traditional teahouses, where they serve drinks, lead conversations, and provide entertainment such as music and dancing. They can often be seen walking through Gion’s narrow alleyways on their way to engagements, wearing beautiful kimonos. Given their iconic place in Japanese culture it’s understandable that many people want to take photos of geishas. But there have been incidents of tourists trying to get them to stop for a photo by shouting for their attention, blocking their path and even touching them. It is illegal to photograph or film someone in Gion without their permission.

Overcrowding

City dwellers often complain that they struggle to commute, shop or otherwise get around on public buses, due to the number of tourists on board with large suitcases. To help cope with this issue, Kyoto has launched an express bus service connecting the train station with key tourist destinations.

In Kamakura, guards have been stationed at a railway crossing to prevent tourists from getting too close to the tracks for photos at the location of a popular anime. And local authorities have proposed drastically raising the entrance fees for tourists to the spectacular Himeji Castle, which is one of Japan’s most-visited historic sites.

Mount Fuji misery

Almost 4,000m high, the volcano Mount Fuji is one of three sacred mountains in Japan, and images of its snowcapped slopes are everywhere. Even so, there’s no beating the real thing, and the authorities in the nearby town of Fujikawaguchiko were forced to put up a barrier restricting views of the mountain, because of the number of people blocking roads and trespassing on private property to get a photo at the perfect angle. Just days later, several smartphone-sized holes were arrogantly cut into the screen by determined photographers.

And it’s not just at the base where Mount Fuji suffers from overcrowding. There are four trails to the summit and they can get very busy – crowding has also been blamed for an increase in littering. Many hikers set off unprepared too, putting them in greater danger of altitude sickness and injury. As a result, authorities have introduced trail fees – a third of which go to conservation initiatives – and limited the numbers of trekkers. Trails are also closed after 4pm except for people staying in mountain huts. This reduces ‘bullet trekking’, where people walk up at night to catch sunrise from the summit, which carries increased risk of falls and injury.

Trash talking

There are very few public litter bins in Japan, for various reasons including a cultural aversion to littering, and security. Most people will take their litter with them to dispose of at home. For foreign tourists, though, this can be disconcerting, and unfortunately not everyone takes such a conscientious approach to carrying around their rubbish with them. As tourism has grown in Japan, so has the problem of littering, and one of the saddest results of this is that some of the sacred deer in Nara Park have died due to ingesting plastic waste left by inconsiderate visitors.

Information campaigns

Kyoto has developed a code of conduct for visitors that aims to boost cross-cultural understanding, reduce waste, and encourage good manners. Public drinking has been banned in parts of Tokyo, and signage introduced to inform tourists of likely cultural differences.

In the same vein, on our holidays to Japan you’ll be provided before departure with a detailed information pack that outlines some useful Dos and Don’ts, with tips on language, dress and etiquette.

Working with communities

Tension is often caused when communities feel their concerns about the impact of tourism are being ignored or overridden. When local authorities prize growth in visitor numbers and business taxes over the welfare of residents it can lead to resentment. Instead, authorities should work with local people, giving them a voice and making them active partners in how tourism is developed in the places where they live and work.

Managing numbers

Japan is employing various tactics to better manage visitor numbers across popular destinations. As mentioned above, limits have been placed on the number of trekkers on Mount Fuji’s trails, while at the multi-tiered Himeji Castle it has been proposed to quadruple the entrance fees for overseas visitors. If successful that could have the twin effect of curbing demand, and providing useful funds for the maintenance of this magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site.

New destinations & experiences

Compared with some hotspots around the world, Japan doesn’t actually get all that many tourists. The issue is that they mostly head to the same few locations including Tokyo and Kyoto. The Japan Tourist Agency has identified 11 ‘model tourism destinations’ around the country that it wants to promote, including the Shiretoko Peninsula in eastern Hokkaido; Mount Hachimantai, and the Hokuriku region, which is famed for its samurai heritage. Doing so would relieve strain on places like Kyoto and Mount Fuji while also bringing greater awareness of places that could do with more tourism.

“There are a few more places that are growing in popularity too such as Takayama and the island of Miyajima, but it is often about ‘doing it’ differently to others,” says James Mundy. “For example, Miyajima gets crowded with day trippers but stay overnight at a traditional ryokan (inn) and you can see the island at its quietest and there’s more money going back into the local economy. And we often encourage people to stay in a nearby town to Takayama. We work with an organisation there that provides local guides and helps visitors embrace the rich culture of the town, which has the same Edo-era wooden buildings but is empty of tourists compared to Takayama.”

Many tourists are first-time visitors to Japan, and naturally cluster in cities like Tokyo and Kyoto as their attractions are well-known. Our Japan holidays often branch out further to places, and experiences, that are less familiar. These trips might take you to the Tohoku region, north of Tokyo, where your visit supports areas that were devastated by an earthquake and tsunami, and Sado Island, known for its taiko drumming. Others venture to Kanazawa, with a geisha culture to rival that of Kyoto, and the Toyama prefecture, where you can stay for a few nights in a historic farmhouse amid the rice paddies, learning about rural life.

“We have made a conscious effort to work with locally owned accommodation across Japan and places that are quite different,” says James. On spreading tourism beyond the famous destinations, he adds: “It’s a tricky issue and far be it for us to tell the government how to do its job, but we work and consult with local communities such as in the Tango peninsula, the town of Joge and in the northern region of Tohoku to engage with residents and craftspeople so they can show off their wares. It means travellers get ‘beneath the surface’ of the local culture while also helping to preserve it.”

A stay in a farmhouse, converted machiya (townhouse) or traditional ryokan offers a uniquely Japanese experience and although there are no big ‘box ticker’ sights as such, engaging with the local culture and people is often the highlight of a holiday.

Smarter itineraries

Naturally, if you visit Japan, you will want to spend at least some time in at least one of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. Despite the obvious issues with overtourism, they are still thrilling places to explore. But canny tour operators such as our partners know how to provide a more enjoyable experience where you’re not stuck in a queue the whole time.

“As Japan travel specialists, we know that there are better times to visit certain places, lesser-visited temples, or quieter districts that offer something special,” says James. “There are lots of shrines and temples with nice gardens and impressive architecture all over Kyoto and only a few get busy. And there are certainly better places to admire Mount Fuji from, like Lake Kawaguchi, with accommodation designed to get the best views of the sacred mountain and not have the crowds.”

As for the geisha experience in Gion, James points out that rather than thronging the streets at dusk for a chance photo, you’re better off joining a small group for a private tea ceremony or evening drinks with a geisha or maiko in attendance. “The memory of this can last a lifetime. It presents the opportunity to be on the inside, not on the outside looking in. Geishas are not objects to be fetishised, but individuals with a story. A less expensive option in spring and autumn is to plan your visit to coincide with the geisha dances. This is a spectacular performance with scores of maiko taking part. It is a longstanding part of the Kyoto calendar and to join is to participate in a little slice of Kyoto geisha life.”