Visiting a Japanese onsen

Hot spring towns and ryokans

There are over 3,000 hot spring towns in Japan, including well-known locations such as Beppu and Yumoto, where mineral-rich water between 25 and 40°C bubbles up from volcanic rocks. As with the spa towns of Europe, this water is believed good for your skin and circulation, and helpful in countering a range of ailments. A natural hot spring bath is called an onsen, but the term is interchangeable with the traditional inns, ryokans, that cluster around them. These are typically family-run and designed with traditional Japanese stylings, so you’ll be sleeping on futons in rooms with tatami mat floors and paper walls. And as Babur Moghul, from our specialist tour operator InsideJapan explains, the food is sublime: “Generally both breakfast and dinner are included, and ryokan hosts really pride themselves on their cooking, as the food is locally sourced and prepared, although not all accommodations can cater for specific dietary requirements, so it’s best to try to plan your trip way in advance. The food is likely to be a range of small plates – expect fish, meat and a variety of soup and sautéed dishes. Japanese tapas would be a good way to describe it.” If you’re on a pilgrimage walk such as the Nakasendo Trail then you may well stay in a few ryokans – they’re a lovely way to explore Japanese culture.

Onsen etiquette

No prizes for guessing the most famous residents of Jigokudani Monkey Park, located in the alpine reaches of central Honshu. These wild macaques, or snow monkeys, are known for spending wintery days soaking in a natural hot spring, and watching them as they bask happily has become one of Japan’s most popular tourism activities. Note however that big crowds are likely, and we’ve also seen disconcerting reports of the monkeys being prevented from leaving the pools if there are still paying customers that want to see them.

Our primate cousins don’t have a reputation as sticklers for rules – if they want to do a bomb in the deep end, they’re gonna. The responsible traveller, on the other hand, has to abide by a quite strict code of onsen etiquette, and it’s important to take it seriously, because transgressions are frowned upon. But don’t worry about it too much. Instead, enjoy learning about the customs as a fascinating introduction to an ancient Japanese tradition. An onsen visit is a clear highlight for so many travellers in Japan, and Babur Moghul believes some people are disappointed when it is not included: “Quite a few people are a little shy of going in their natural bathing suit so to speak, but once they have tried it they really love it. Local people are welcoming of foreigners, respecting their privacy and space. Most Japanese people go for a bath at least once a day and even up to three times – before dinner, after dinner and then in the morning. It’s up to how much time you like to spend relaxing although before dinner seems to be a popular option.”